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Skin-care professionals spill the secrets to minimizing a sunken look.
The Gist
- From aging to daily lifestyle and UV damage, there's a slew of factors that can lead to the development and prominence of dark circles.
- While everyone's results vary, there are a handful of at-home and in-office steps you can take to minimize the look of shadowed undereyes.
Noticed shadowing under your eyes? Unless you fell asleep with your makeup on again (it happens), they’re probably dark circles. Under-eye darkness can pop up at just about any time for a myriad of reasons. But, just like wrinkles, their development is a normal process that can happen as you grow older, and other factors like lack of sleep, genetics, lifestyle habits, and skin-care concerns like eczema can contribute to how prominent undereye circles look.
Thankfully, you also have a bevy of tone-evening options to explore. Whether you want to take matters into your own hands at home with a nourishing eye cream or try a professional treatment, InStyle tapped board-certified dermatologists to weigh in on the ins and outs of dark under-eye circles, including what causes them and how to minimize their look.
Meet Our Expert
- Caren Campbell, M.D., is a board-certified dermatologist based in San Francisco.
- Ranella Hirsch, M.D., is a Boston-based dermatologist.
- Joshua Zeichner, M.D., is the director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City.
Causes of Dark Circles
Aging
Just like fine lines and wrinkles, dark circles can be a simple sign of skin aging. "Dark circles around the eyes are a part of the normal aging process of the face," says board-certified dermatologist Caren Campbell, MD. According to Dr. Campbell, we naturally lose fat under the eye as we age. This contributes to dark circles because the under-eye area becomes sunken in and "can't reflect evenly off the skin, leading to a shadow or darkness."
Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation
Another reason you might have dark circles? Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation—aka darkness that is left behind after inflammation, similar to dark spots. Dr. Campbell noted that patients with these types of dark circles usually suffer from itchy eczema or allergies that cause them to frequently rub their eyes.
Lifestyle Factors
Your daily lifestyle can make an impact on developing dark circles and how prominent they become. "This includes sun exposure, which breaks down collagen and elastin and causes increased broken blood vessels in the skin—all of which contribute to dark circles," says Dr. Campbell. "Lack of sleep, stress, alcohol, caffeine, and smoking can also contribute."
Getting a proper amount of sleep, around anywhere from six to eight hours, is crucial for minimizing the look of dark circles. If you're not getting enough sleep, exhaustion can affect your skin's overall appearance. "If you are overtired, then it can cause an increase in the venous congestion of your under-eye vessels," says board-certified dermatologist Ranella Hirsch, MD. "This then leads to more blood volume and the appearance of darker circles."
Genetics
Per Dr. Campbell, genetics make one of the biggest impacts when it comes to dark circles, and they can come into play in various ways. For example, genetics play a role in both your likelihood of developing the aforementioned eczema and in how quickly your skin shows signs of aging. Genetics, of course, also determines skin type and tone, which play a key role in how prone you may be to developing dark circles, adds Dr. Campbell.
While anyone can experience dark circles, as InStyle previously reported, dark circles are known to affect people with higher levels of melanin in their skin (anyone olive-toned and darker). On the other hand, people with a naturally fair complexion might also more readily notice dark circles.
"Because the skin in this area is thin, you can easily see blood vessels under the skin," explains board-certified dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, MD., adding that these dark circles typically have a purple-ish hue.
How to Treat and Prevent Dark Circles
Use Sunscreen
For starters, stay on top of your sunscreen game and choose a formula of SPF 30 or higher and broad-spectrum, or opt for an SPF-based under-eye concealer (Dr. Campbell likes Colorescience's Total Eye 3-in-1 Renewal Therapy SPF 35). It will not only help cover up eye circles but also prevent future damage. Wearing sunglasses with UV protection can also help prevent the worsening of dark circles caused by post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, suggested Dr. Campbell.
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Try an Under-Eye Cream
Dr. Zeichner noted many reasons you could be experiencing dark under-eye circles and stressed the importance of identifying the causes in order to treat them.
For Pigmentation:
To reduce the look of pigmentation, you'll want ingredients that inhibit abnormal pigment production. Eucerin's Radiant Tone Eye Cream Dark Circle Corrector is a great option, as it contains thiamidol, an ingredient that works hard to reduce the appearance of dark circles. It also has light-reflecting pigments to give you an instant brightening effect.
Dr. Zeichner is a huge fan of under-eye creams that boast vitamin C, a potent antioxidant that interferes with abnormal pigment production. "This is a potent antioxidant that blocks production of abnormal pigmentation to brighten the under-eye area," explained Dr. Zeichner. (We recommend BeautyStat's Universal C Eye Perfector.)
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For Elasticity: For dark circles caused by loose or crepey skin, all the derms recommend vitamin-A derivatives like retinol or retinal, as they stimulate collagen, increase cell turnover, and strengthen the skin's foundation. Additionally, both Dr. Campbell and Dr. Zeichner suggest formulas with antioxidants like vitamin C and niacinamide, both of which have skin-firming and brightening benefits.
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For Hollowness: Some people have a slightly sunken undereye area, which creates a shadow, giving a dark appearance. "Here, the issue is a lack of volume, so look for a hydrating product that contains an ingredient like hyaluronic acid," says Dr. Zeichner. "Hyaluronic acid can also help plump the skin to hide any blood vessels that may be giving a bluish appearance to the under-eye area." He recommends the RoC Multi-Correxion Hydrate and Plump Eye Cream because it contains the hydrating ingredient to plump, hydrate, and smooth under the eyes.
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Conceal With Makeup
YSL Beauty's National Makeup Artist, J. Brandon Correa, and Tarte's Global Makeup Artist, Alexis Smith, suggest only treating the areas of discoloration rather than the full under-eye area. "If you apply too much, you will end up having a circle of just a different color," explained Correa.
Instead, Correa recommended adding concealer, such as YSL's Touche Éclat, which has an illuminating effect, to the upper and inner corners of the eye and the upper sides of the nose, then gently tapping the product into the skin with either your clean fingertips or a small makeup brush.
Another alternative is using what Smith calls the "check mark technique," which involves dabbing concealer into the inner and outer eye corners, always blending upwards into the temple to create a more lifted effect. When choosing a concealer, opt for a shade with a peach undertone as it will "correct any grayness under the eye," says Correa.
Smith advised selecting a concealer that's one shade lighter than your foundation. However, if you want a more highlighted look, opt for a shade two shades lighter than your go-to complexion product. He suggested Tarte's best-selling Shape Tape Concealer or Shape Tape Creamy Concealer, depending on your skin type.
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Tips
According to Smith, people with normal and oily skin can often use standard formulas, whereas those with dry or mature skin should opt for hydrating ones to prevent irritation and creasing.
Consider an In-Office Treatment
For dark circles caused by aging or from hollow eyes that cast shadows, Dr. Campbell says her go-to in-office procedure for these types of dark circles is a filler, such as Restylane or Juvéderm.
"Despite the videos you may see on social media, the best way to treat this area is to improve the under-eye and cheek junction rather than just filling the under-eye, so make sure you see a board-certified dermatologist with experience in treating this area," says Dr. Zeichner, adding that the downside to only treating under the eyes can lead to an unnatural and puffy appearance.
Both dermatologists agree that the best in-office treatment for dark circles caused by hyperpigmentation likely involves a chemical peel or lasers. Dr. Zeichner emphasized the importance of speaking to a board-certified dermatologist to discuss which treatment is best for you, as different peels and lasers tackle different concerns and provide different results.
"Resurfacing lasers can strengthen the skin, while other lasers can help eliminate pigmentation or extra blood vessels that may give a bluish appearance," explained Dr. Zeichner.
Frequently asked Questions
Can vitamin deficiency cause dark under-eye circles?
Vitamins E, D, K, A, and B12 deficiencies, as well as a lack of iron, may contribute to dark circles.
Do dark under-eye circles ever go away?
How and when your dark circles go away will depend on their cause and severity. Treatments range from topical skin-care products to in-office procedures.
Can stress cause dark under-eye circles?
Poor sleep or lack of sleep resulting from stress can contribute to dark under-eye circles. Reducing stress and getting sufficient quality sleep may help to improve the appearance of dark circles.
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Read the original article on InStyle
