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Marion Ainge traces the steps of Odysseus in Ithaca.
Following the Trojan War, it took Homer's Greek hero Odysseus, 10 years to get home to Ithaca. During this journey he faced hardships, battles and temptation.
These included an escape from the Cyclops, who devoured several of Odysseus' men. Then Poseidon wreaked revenge on our Greek hero with perilous stormy seas for blinding his Cyclops son, Polyphemus. Odysseus also devised a plan to avoid the seduction of the Sirens, whose beautiful singing voices lured sailors to steered their ship onto the rocks and their death.
From our hotel near Kefalonia's capital Argostoli, it's no big challenge, but merely a short coach ride and an hour and a half's boat trip from Skala in the south of the island, to Ithaca. Captain Vangelis, 74, pops the captain's cap on my head and trusts me with the wheel for a few minutes. Then as we dock in Ithaca's charming Vathy, the captain surprises us with a well-practised, backward somersault into the sea. We cheer and applaud him.
The small, magical island of Ithaca rests in the glittering emerald waters of the Ionian Sea. I sit with new-found friends at a harbourside cafe, sipping an ice-cold watermelon crush and looking out to the lush, tree-clad mountains of Odysseus' home. I imagine, after his challenging 10 years, he might have beached the boat smartish here to down a cup or two of the local retsina.
I'm on a Friendship Travel week's stay at The Coudour Hotel in Pessada, near Argostoli in the south west of Kefalonia. Our genial host, Jean meets and greets everyone at the airport to accompany them to the beautiful, independently owned hotel. Jean is with us for the whole week, keeping us together and providing information and guidance. Located in a quiet, residential area, this stylish hotel is the epitome of peaceful rest and relaxation. It's adults only and there's no loud music. I completely forgot about the TV in my room. Each of the 29 spacious bedrooms has a balcony or terrace, air conditioning, fridge and double bed. My room affords wonderful, wake-up mountain and garden views. The lovely restaurant terrace overlooks mature borders of flowers, palms, shrubs and trees and the pool area has plenty of sunbeds and chairs. It's very hot so we're glad of a splash around or a swim to cool off now and then. There's also a massage tent, pool table and small gym. Ever-smiling staff are friendly and always helpful.
Within the tiny village of Spartia, following a gentle, 20-minute stroll away along country lanes, you'll find a couple of cafe bars and mini-markets, with a local beach a bit further on. Car hire might well be a good idea as the hotel area isn't near a bus route. Taxis are available. A few of us travelled by taxi to Kefalonia's capital, Argostoli. Another day we hired a larger cab to spend a wonderful day at Lassi's golden-sand beach which has sunbeds, a restaurant and other facilities. The temperature is still rising so we can hardly wait to paddle or swim in the sparkling, crystal clear Ionian Sea.
We're a group of 15 females and males with an average age of between 50 and 70 and we soon settle in. Quite a few had met each other on previous Friendship Travel holidays. First time solo travellers can sometimes find it a bit daunting to travel alone but the award-winning, long-established Friendship Travel's wide choice of villa/hotel summer and winter holidays provides a safe environment where it's easy to make friends and feel comfortable. And there are no single supplements. This proven recipe for success prompts guests to return year after year.
Jenny, 76, from Ipswich, has been holidaying with Friendship Travel for 18 years. 'I love Friendship Holidays,' she says.' I felt happy and comfortable from my first visit and I've made so many friends. Some of us arrange to meet up every year'. Our group members bond quickly. In the evenings we meet al fresco on the bamboo-covered terrace for pre-dinner drinks and a chat. The scent of rosemary, mint, basil and thyme hangs in the hot, humid air. In the restaurant we sit at two long tables. The three selections of starters include delicious crunchy, fresh salads. The main course, home-made moussaka, is truly the best I've ever tasted and there's half a bottle of wine per person included with each evening meal. On two nights we dine at local restaurants. The breakfast buffet provides a feast of baked eggs, sausages, bacon, tomatoes, cucumber, cold meats, cheeses, croissants, crusty bread, honey and jams. Plus, of course, thick creamy Greek yoghurt - none of that low fat stuff here!
Known for its glorious beaches and backcloth of wooded mountains, Kefalonia, the largest Ionian island, is the setting for the Second World War romance-themed novel and film, Captain Corelli's Mandolin. A selection of excursions, at an additional cost, is provided by local company KCG Tours. Because I'm fascinated with Greek mythology, I chose the Fiscardo Island Tour which includes a visit to the legendary Melissani Cave. Our boatman belts out 'O sole mio' and dips the paddles silently into the deep, underground lake as the boat glides through the two, dark echoing chambers. Sunlight streams though a huge opening at the top of the cave, sending shimmering rays to illuminate the blue/green underground lake which is connected to the sea. The story goes that legendary water nymphs sang and danced in this cave. Beautiful nymph Melissani fell for god Pan. He didn't reciprocate. Too busy playing with his pipes. The water became a sparkling shade of luminous turquoise as, in despair, she jumped into the lake. Silly girl! There's always another.
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