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Dramatic coastlines, a dreamscape of shimmering blue waters, and the site of ancient myth… it could only be Ithaca.
Just off the coast of Kefalonia, this small Greek island may be lesser-known than the rest, but it has a starring role in Homer’s Odyssey as the birthplace of Odysseus, and where he returns after the Trojan war.
All of that to say, it’s shrouded in legend and magic.
And now with Christopher Nolan’s epic film adaptation, which tells the 20-year story of a king’s journey back to his homeland, Ithaca has been drawn back into the spotlight.
Measuring 37 square miles, the ’emerald of the Ionian’ has a permanent population of just 2,000 residents.
It is one of the smallest of the Ionian Islands, second only to Paxos, which is a dainty 9.8 square miles.
Historians have spent centuries pouring over Homer’s description of the island, with many arguing that it matches places like Paliki more than Ithaca.
We don’t know if Homer himself existed, either. Some believe The Odyssey may have been written by a collective rather than an individual poet.
Still, whether Homer and Odysseus existed or not, the fact remains that modern-day Ithaca is much quieter than other Greek islands.
In 2025, Greece was visited by 43.31 million tourists, a 6.4% increase from 2024.
Destinations like Zakynthos (also known as Zante) have been dubbed the ‘capital of overtourism,’ and are crying out for respite.
Only around 40,000 people actually live on the island, but in 2023, a whopping six million people stayed overnight, mainly along its south coast. This equates to 150 overnight stays for every person who lives there.
By comparison, between 20,000 and 30,000 people trek to Ithaca annually, allowing visitors to swap crowds for undisturbed coastline.
Things to do on Ithaca
If it’s a beach holiday you’re after, then you’ll be pleased to know Ithaca is inundated with them.
Gedaki Beach has crystal clear water, and with its crescent shape, there are plenty of hidden spots to explore.
There are also Filiatro and Polis beaches, while Vathy Bay is a port with charming views across the island, visible across the red-topped houses.
With this in mind, Ithaca is an idyllic spot to try out activities like snorkelling, scuba diving, and kayaking. If you’re more enticed by the land, then hire a bike and trek around the island, but be warned: it’s very hilly.
For a long time, there was only one hotel on Ithaca, which perhaps attests to just how undercrowded it is (it was actually just called ‘Hotel,’ too).
Nowadays, there are more than a few to choose from, many of them drawing on the (perhaps cliché-inducing) Odyssey references. Take your pick: Homer’s View Villas, Captain’s Apartments, Odyssey Apartments.
If you want to go full Greek myth during your stay, then a visit to the Cave of the Nymphs is worth it.
Allegedly, it’s where Odysseus was abandoned by the Phaeacians while he was sleeping.
How to get to Ithaca
Getting to Ithaca is not exactly straightforward. There is no airport on the island.
Your best bet is to fly to Preveza International Airport, which takes about three hours and 20 minutes from London Gatwick.
There’s a direct route available through easyJet, and at the time of writing, flights departing on August 1 and returning on August 8 are reasonably priced, at £167.
Jet2 runs the same route, and there’s also a Wizz Air flight from Luton to Zakynthos Airport, which takes three hours and 50 minutes.
From there, you’ll need to hire a car for the… wait for it… five-hour journey.
Your first stop will be the Fiskardo – Vasiliki port, which is where you’ll catch the ferry to Fiskardo, right in the north of Kefalonia.
Then, drive onwards to the ferry port in Aetos to catch the Sami ferry, and you’ll eventually land on the shores of Ithaca.
When to go to Ithaca
As is the case with most Greek islands, the best time of year to visit if you want sunshine is the summer.
On average, July and August see highs of 30°C, while September is still nice and balmy at 27°C.
Winter sun is another strong option, as November sees the mercury stay at highs of 20°C, while January and February are still a fairly sunny 14°C.
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