This spicy fried fish sandwich is the summer's hottest catch

When I saw restaurant critic Cesar Hernandez's recent ranking of the best fried fish sandwiches in the Bay Area, I was hooked on the idea of creating my own. My version features a fried cod brushed with an aromatic spice paste and complemented by a sour, herby slaw. It's loosely inspired by the McDonald's Filet-O-Fish, in that it features a crispy fish patty balanced by a tangy element. I borrowed the concept of combining hot oil with spices to create a piquant coating from Nashville hot chicken. And the slaw is an amalgamation of various toppings used in fried fish tacos, such as crema, cabbage and chiles. 

Frying can be intimidating for many home cooks, especially with the finicky, runny batters often used for frying seafood. But if you follow mise en place, where the batter and toppings are all prepared beforehand, the process is less chaotic. 

While making this recipe isn't quite as easy as heading to the drive thru, it's designed to come together in just over an hour. The slaw, batter and chile oil are assembled while the fish is briefly cured. Unlike steak or chicken, fish is delicate and only needs 30 minutes to an hour for the salt to permeate. Aside from providing flavor, the salt firms and tenderizes the fish. 

The slaw balances the oiliness of the fried fish, much like tartar sauce does in other variations. The key element is jocoque, a tangy fermented Mexican dairy product similar to labneh. You can find it stocked near the yogurt and sour cream, but crema can be used in a pinch. The jocoque coats the cabbage, scallions, serrano and cilantro leaves, creating a mixture that's herby and grassy without distracting from the subtle flavor of the cod.

Nailing the consistency of the batter, which is equal parts flour and cornstarch, by whisking together until just smooth, will guarantee a straightforward frying process. If it's too thin, it will have a hard time staying on the fish when it hits the oil. If it isn't homogenous, the texture of each fried piece will be inconsistent.

Achieving the right amount of salt in the batter is important to keep it from tasting bland. I would advise against using spices that are essentially salt blends, such as garlic salt, since the added salt will throw off the balance. And since salt crystal sizes vary by brand, make sure to convert the volume amount to whichever you're using. (One teaspoon of table salt is equivalent to 1 ½ teaspoons Morton kosher salt or 2 teaspoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt.)

Preheat the oil and prepare the spice blend simultaneously, so they can be combined as soon as soon as the oil reaches frying temperature. I use a mix of cayenne, paprika, cumin, coriander, oregano, garlic powder and onion powder. As soon as the oil reaches the frying temperature of 350 degrees, it's poured over the prepared spices in a heatproof mixing bowl (made of stainless steel or tempered glass) or small pot. Make sure to open a window and keep your distance to avoid catching a whiff of spice. The hot oil blooms the spices, waking up their potency. If you prefer not to handle hot oil, you can mix room temperature oil into the spice blend instead. It has a thick consistency that effortlessly clings to the surface of the fried fish. The chile oil is potent and only meant to be consumed when matched up with the slaw.  

When battering and gently submerging the fish in the oil, it's best to work by hand, but make sure to use a utensil when removing  it from the oil. Fish tends to slip out of the tongs' grasp; plus, they leave unbattered spots of fish since they cover a greater surface area. Avoid splashing hot oil by gently lowering the fish into the vessel. The batter is fragile when the fish first starts frying, so avoid disturbing it until it sets. Once the coating solidifies and takes on a light brown color, it needs to be flipped with tongs or a fish spatula continuously for the last four minutes. This agitation ensures even browning and prevents the bottom from burning. Once the fish is fried, immediately sprinkle it with a light coating of salt. Finish it by brushing a thin layer of the spice paste over each piece.

Spicy Fried Fish Sandwich

Serves 4  

This sandwich features flavorful fried cod, coated in honey-infused beer batter and brushed with an earthy, savory chile oil. A jocoque slaw composed of cabbage, cilantro, scallions and serrano provides freshness and crunch. Both components are stuffed between fluffy brioche buns.

Fish

1 pound skinless cod fillets, cut into four 4-ounce portions

Kosher salt

Slaw

2 cups green cabbage, thinly sliced

4 scallions, thinly sliced

1 serrano, thinly sliced

½ cup jocoque, labneh or crema

¼ cup cilantro leaves

Batter

1 cup flour

1 cup cornstarch

1 ¼ cup beer (10oz)

2 tablespoons honey

1 tablespoon Diamond kosher salt, or equivalent in Morton or table salt 

1 teaspoon baking powder

Chile oil

1 ½ quarts neutral oil such as peanut or canola for frying

1 tablespoon cayenne

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon onion powder

Sandwich

4 brioche buns

Prepare the fish: Place fish on a plate or baking sheet. Salt the pieces on both sides. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Meanwhile, prepare the slaw, chile oil and batter.

Make the slaw: In a medium bowl, combine cabbage, scallions, serrano, jocoque and cilantro. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Make the batter: In a large bowl, add flour, cornstarch, beer, honey, salt and baking powder. Whisk to form a smooth batter. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Make the chile oil: Combine cayenne, smoked paprika, cumin, coriander, oregano, garlic powder and onion powder in a heatproof bowl. Add the oil to a large Dutch oven or stock pot to create a makeshift deep fryer. Heat it over medium-high until the oil reaches 350 degrees. Using a ladle, transfer ¼ cup of the oil to the spice bowl and stir to combine. Set aside.

Fry the fish: Remove the batter from the refrigerator and whisk until loosened. Working with one piece at a time, use your hands to dip the fish in the batter, being careful not to touch the oil with your fingers. Hold it above the bowl until the batter stops dripping. Submerge in hot oil. Repeat with the remaining fish fillets. Fry, undisturbed until the coating turns a light brown, about 4 minutes. Continue to cook, occasionally flipping with tongs, until the exterior is golden, about 4 minutes more. Using tongs, transfer to a paper towel-lined plate or baking sheet with a wire rack. Sprinkle with salt. Using a brush or spoon, apply the chile oil over the fish in an even layer.

Assemble the sandwich: Place jocoque slaw on the bottom brioche bun. Layer in the fried fish and top with the bun.

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