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Nothing says Greek summer like jumping into a cool sapphire sea before refuelling on a hearty plate of lobster-tail pasta, the hypnotic song of cicadas filling the air. Too many of us fly straight to the islands, forgetting the quieter regions of the mainland, but the Peloponnese is rich in everything that makes a Greek holiday so special.
This storied peninsula – home of Agamemnon of legend and the redoubtable Spartans, the original Olympic games, and most recently the backdrop to Christopher Nolan’s The Odyssey – offers the full Greek experience. Prime beaches and secret coves abound along its vast coastline, while its lush mountains are ideal for hiking and climbing.
There are towns for every taste, from the uncompromising beauty of the villages of the Mani or the castle town of Monemvasia, to enchanting Nafplio with its bougainvillea-strewn promenades and the romance of evocative Mystras. The Peloponnese is a region to be savoured.
The best beaches and swim spots
There are some exceptional places to take a dip. I love the heavenly coolness of deep waters in a cove, where colourful fish dart in and out of the rocks. My top pick is the village of Limeni in the Mani. Further down the peninsula, Gerolimenas is another fine spot for a swim. On the eastern coast, Monemvasia’s Portello “beach” – a platform just outside the castle walls – offers a sandless swim with an unbeatable view of the historical town.
The region has its fair share of spectacular beaches, too. Messinia’s Natura 2000-protected Voidokilia – a postcard-perfect arc – is a wonder. At the tip of the Cape Malea peninsula, Hamokelo Beach with its cedar trees, silky sand dunes and turquoise waters feels like it’s at the edge of the world, and – if you absolutely must visit an island – Elafonisos is a 10-minute ferry ride away from adjacent Pounta.
In the rugged Mani, pebbled Foneas beach is the pick of the pack for many. These are just three of a multitude. Wherever you see a cluster of cars parked in the middle of nowhere, a gorgeous beach is likely to be close by.
A rich history
The Peloponnese is a treasure trove of history and archaeology. Ancient Mycenae (00 30 27510 76585), which predates Athens’s Parthenon by centuries, never fails to move me. Through the Lion Gate in the vast Cyclopean walls, myth and archaeology mingle intriguingly. A highlight is the Treasury of Atreus, or Tomb of Agamemnon. The gravitas of this vast beehive tomb and the legend associated with it will have you reaching for your Homer.
Some 45 minutes away by car and closer to Athens, the magnificent Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus hosts events for the Athens Epidaurus Festival. Here visitors can fully immerse themselves in Ancient Greece by attending a performance. This August, catch Aristophanes’ Lysistrata, and Euripides’ The Trojan Women and Ion.
You can also visit the theatre by day; it’s part of the Sanctuary of Asklepios, a sacred centre of healing at Epidaurus (00 30 27530 22009), one of the most significant sites of classical antiquity. Have one of your party speak softly from the centre of the stage to marvel at the acoustics, and leave time for the fascinating on-site museum.
All this before we even get to Ancient Olympia (00 30 26240 22517) – site of the famed ancient Games. It’s possible to visit this and the Doric Temple of Apollo Epicurius at Bassae (00 30 26260 22275; covered by a tent) by Ictinus, the architect of the Parthenon, in a day, given that they are just 90 minutes apart. Stop for lunch in Andritsaina.
Archaeological sites of the Peloponnese and their related museums are generally open in summer from 8am to 8pm daily, with gradually earlier closings through autumn. It’s wise to call before you go in case there is a last-minute change.
Mystras and Monemvasia
Rising steeply over the fertile Evrotas valley, the vast medieval and Byzantine Unesco World Heritage Site of Mystras (00 30 27310 83377) is deeply atmospheric. The centre of the Byzantine world is an entire small city – immerse yourself in its magic, wandering through the vast tangle of lanes passing the crumbling ruins of beautiful architectural detail. Highlights include its several richly frescoed churches and Pantanassa, a working monastery.
The star is the grand Palace of the Despots, which recently opened after over four decades of restoration. It has a throne room filled with recreations of period costume (work of the nuns of the Pantanassa), and museum spaces. Mystras holds countless stories and, in the company of engaging archaeologist and licensed guide Dimitris Vlachakos (00 30 697 471 2849), this site comes fully to life.
To come as close as possible to experiencing the Byzantine world for yourself, there’s nothing like a stay in the historical castle town of Monemvasia. Inside the magnificent fortress is a maze of cobbled paths, arches, mysterious passages, stairs and tiny courtyards.
Discover its centuries of stories and secrets with licensed guide and archaeologist Effie Anagnopoulou (00 30 69701 33802). This living fairytale takes a little planning: a taxi or bus (about every half hour) connects Gefyra – the modern town – to the castle gate. Alternatively, you can drive over the causeway, park, and walk for 10 minutes or so. Either way, there are no vehicles beyond the castle gate; bring only what you can carry. To make the most of your stay, set an alarm to watch the sun rise from the sea, and definitely bring a bathing suit to enjoy a dip at Portello.
The Mani
Made famous by Patrick Leigh Fermor’s Mani: Travels in the Southern Peloponnese, the Mani alone is reason enough to visit the Peloponnese. The west coast is one of the best drives I know in Greece, from Gerolimenas in the south, past Limeni, to the mountainous villages and towns such as Agios Nikon that dot this rugged coastline.
The Mani’s traditional stone towers are unique; you can visit the most famous of them at the Mourtzini family fortress in Kardamyli, which is now a museum (officially 8am-8pm Wed-Mon, but it starts closing up around 7pm). Patrick and Joan Leigh Fermor’s wonderful home is now part of the Benaki Museum (for tickets visit their site) and opens once a week.
Adventures and activities
The mountainous Peloponnese offers superb hiking, with an organised network of over 1,700km of trails developed under the management of the Greek Natural Environment and Climate Change Agency. Arcadia’s Menalon Trail is a fine place to start, with its 75km divided into eight sections connecting historical villages and monasteries in beautiful Gortyna.
The red and silver cliffs of Leonidio offer more than 60 crags and 2,500 routes for climbers of all levels of experience. An international climbing festival each autumn is a highpoint.
Situated just south of Areopoli in the Mani, parts of the Diros Caves can be explored on foot, although a boat trip is more dramatic – the rock formations create mind-blowing reflections across the water.
Where to stay
Kinsterna, near Monemvasia, offers more than mere luxury. This sustainable property with its restored 13th-century manor has a philosophy grounded in community, and is defined by utter serenity. The infinity pool borders a riot of citrus, olive and fig trees. Doubles with breakfast from €355 (£302).
In the north of the region, I stay at John and George in Tolo – a spotless, modern hotel owned and operated by a hospitable family. The pool overlooks the Bay of Tolo, and there are some specially designed rooms for guests with accessibility needs. Doubles with breakfast from €130 (£111).
In the centre of the Peloponnese, the mountain town Dimitsana, with its cooler nights, makes a fine base for exploring. The charming rooms at the traditional Xenonas Orizontes offer excellent value. Doubles with balcony from €75 (£64), breakfast not included.
Eating and drinking
Yioryitsa’s Backyard (£), in Kardamyli’s old town, is just that – a charming backyard, where you enjoy local specialities such as tsouchti (traditional Maniot pasta) with browned butter and fried eggs. There’s a calendar of live music and cultural events.
Across from the mountain spring and sycamore tree in lovely Andritsaina, Syntages Mageirikes (£) serves home-style mountain dishes, such as lamb with oregano and chickpea stew. It is not far from the Temple of Apollo at Bassae.
You can dine at Kinsterna (££-£££) by advance arrangement. Their own wines, produce and extra-virgin olive oil from 500-year-old trees and local specialities such as gogges (hearty hand-rolled pasta) are served with finesse in one of the loveliest settings you can imagine.
Enjoy wines by the glass, small dishes, or a tasting to learn more about the local wine varieties such as Kydonitsa or the PDO Monemvasia Malvasia at Byron’s Wine Bar in a hidden courtyard in Monemvasia.
Getting there and around
Direct flights on British Airways and EasyJet connect London with Kalamata, close to many points of interest. Ancient Mycenae and Epidaurus in the north are less than two hours from Athens. A car is by far the easiest way to enjoy the Peloponnese, especially if you plan on some beach hopping.
Regional bus networks connect the region’s towns: check KTEL Messinias for the Messinian peninsula and part of the Mani, KTEL Lakonias for much of the Mani, Mystras and Monemvasia, KTEL Argolida for Nafplio, Epidaurus and Mycenae (near Fichti), and KTEL Ilia for Ancient Olympia.
Recommended tours
For a combination of expert planning plus privacy and flexibility, Wanderlife Greece can arrange your itinerary and set you up with a car and specially selected B&B, and offer plenty of tips on walks and other attractions. From €700 (£595) per person for two with activities and entrance fees included.
Arkas Travel offers an eight-day family-friendly, multi-activity group tour with rafting, walking and kayaking, as well as history and archaeology excursions, including transport and accommodation, from €930 (£791) per person. It also offers a self-guided walking tour of the Mani, which includes accommodation with breakfast, luggage transfer between accommodations, a GPS application and 24-hour phone support.
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