The conversation around nails has never been more diverse. Whether you prefer a simpler, quiet-luxury-adjacent style or something more maximalist, there is a technique out there that aims to please. If the Japanese manicure focuses on elevating the health and appearance of the natural, bare nail, and the Ukrainian style is all about an intricate finish, then the Italian manicure is made for those of us who are loyal to keeping our nails short and sweet.
Like many things in beauty, the “Italian manicure” technique isn’t a new concept. In Italy (of course), manicurists have been using the method for decades, while many others have used this trick long before it became a trending term.
While anyone can adopt it, this nail-painting technique is especially useful for those who want to make their short nail beds appear longer. Manicurist Alexandra Teleki showcased this trick in a now-viral social media tutorial. “This technique is usually used on short, ‘squoval,’ or square nails,” she explains. “It can be used for a full-color classic manicure or painted tips,” she says in the clip. The style works best on manicures that use a single color or French tips.
The technique creates an optical illusion as you leave a small line of unpainted nail between the nail and the nail bed or cuticle. “When painting in full color, you want to get as close as possible to the cuticles without touching the skin,” Teleki adds in the video. Even if you overpaint or get polish on the skin, there’s an easy trick to clean up the polish: Use the tiniest nail brush dipped in remover to create a narrow vertical line between the skin and the color. This also creates the illusion of slightly more elongated nail beds, so it’s double duty.
The “Italian manicure” technique creates a very subtle difference, but one that makes a world of difference as it gives a sleek finish. It’s easy enough to recreate at home, too: Start by applying a stroke of color straight down the middle and then another on each side of the nail to ensure it looks smooth and clean. Next, use a fine-liner brush such as this one by Manucurist to do the small margin around the perimeter of the nail plate. Chic nails in a flash.