This is the underrated region of Spain I keep coming back to—with incredible dining, mountain villages, and wild beaches

After decades of traveling across Spain, one expert explains why Asturias stands out for its authenticity, protected landscapes, and exceptional local cuisine.

Asturias is the part of Spain I find myself returning to again and again. Tucked into the country's rugged northern coast, it still evokes the Spain I first fell in love with in the early 1990s, when I was driven by a restless Don Quijote spirit, wandering the country by car and immersing myself in its history, architecture, traditions, and fiestas. Back then, foreign visitors were still a rarity in many of Spain's beautiful rural villages. While much of the country has since become firmly established on the international travel map, Asturias has retained that exhilarating sense of discovery.

I've spent the past 30 years exploring Spain's cities, villages, coastlines, and islands, often in the company of exceptional local guides and insiders who have helped me uncover the country's many layers. Finding remarkable people and places for our clients has been one of the great pleasures of being a travel advisor. I've also returned time and again with friends and family, seeking out the places I genuinely love rather than whatever happens to be trending. And nowhere captures the Spain I miss—and still cherish—quite like Asturias.

Where Authenticity Reigns

Asturias is largely devoid of global franchises, souvenir shops, high-rise hotels. While a third Starbucks opened this year, most of the stores, bars, and restaurants in its larger towns are owned by locals. In fact, the owners are usually the people who welcome you through the door.

The region encompasses spectacular landscapes, and about one-third of its territory is under some form of environmental protection, including seven Biosphere Reserves and 39 Natural Monuments. It’s also home to Picos de Europa National Park, Spain’s first national park, which was established in 1918. In addition to its wild landscapes, you’ll find rolling countryside dotted with historic villages like Arenas de Cabrales, Bulnes, and Asiego.

And don’t think it’s just authenticity and nature—history runs deep here. Very deep. Asturias was the only part of the Iberian Peninsula that the Moors—the Umayyad Caliphate—never fully conquered in the early eighth century, and it was from here that the Christian Reconquista of Spain was launched. As they say proudly here, “Asturias is Spain, and the rest is conquered land.” Asturias still feels less traveled and more untamed than other parts of the country.

Cider, Fishing Villages, and Cheese

Curiously, in a country that boasts many outstanding wine regions, Asturias has taken a different path. Its history, culture, and climate favor not the grape, but the apple. This is cider country, but cider in Asturias is far more than a drink; it’s part of the region’s identity and its social life. For locals, sharing cider is a ritual of friendship, tradition, conversation, and pride, deeply woven into Asturian culture.

Cider is at its finest in a traditional sidrería, where it is served with Cabrales, a blue cheese aged high in the Picos de Europa mountains by cheesemakers and shepherds.

The coastline of the region is fringed with ridiculously good-looking beaches and traditional fishing villages where the boats still return with the day’s catch.

Quiet Culinary Powerhouse

Asturias has quietly become one of Spain’s most exciting culinary destinations. Despite having a population of just over one million, the region is home to eleven Michelin-starred restaurants—one of the highest concentrations per capita in Spain. The region’s produce, seafood, and cheeses are exceptional.

Leading the way is renowned chef Nacho Manzano, whose three-Michelin-starred restaurant, Casa Marcial, ranks among Spain’s most acclaimed restaurants. But fine dining is only part of the story. No matter where you eat in Asturias, you’ll find exceptional food, warm hospitality, and the portions are famously, and delightfully, generous.

A Different Kind of Luxury

Luxury comes in many guises, but it’s the simplicity of life that I particularly love here— its dramatic landscapes, the region’s eclectic character, and its proud, generous, and unpretentious people. It’s no coincidence that some of my most memorable family trips have been here, in every season.

And it’s no accident that Spain’s best-known chef in the United States, José Andrés, is from Asturias. He’s the real deal—a man who genuinely cares as much about people as he does his projects, and who brings so much energy and authenticity to everything he does. He embodies the spirit of Asturias: generous, unpretentious, and a force of nature.

As Asturias becomes more connected—it now has a high-speed rail connection to Madrid—it will inevitably become more popular. My advice is to visit sooner rather than later, and enjoy walking the villages, exploring the landscape, relaxing with a cider, and marveling at the surroundings.

Nigel Hack is a member of Travel + Leisure's A-List and specializes in trips to Spain and Portugal. You can create a tailor-made itinerary with Hack by contacting [email protected].

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