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This beautiful sailing yacht visits small Caribbean ports and feels like a bygone era

Carolina Bejarano
Exterior view of the Sea Cloud II. Credit: Carolina Bejarano

Sea Cloud II is a newly built but classically styled intimate ship that sails to small Caribbean islands in style

Sea Cloud II is a newly built but classically styled intimate ship that sails to small Caribbean islands in style

If you ask me, Terre-de-Haut is what the Caribbean used to be, before sprawling resorts and city-sized cruise ships came to the islands. The bells atop a small stone church sounded as the faithful dressed in their Sunday best headed home to neat frame houses. A handful of visitors wandered the narrow stone street lined with boutiques and cozy restaurants. Those heading to the nearby beach, Baie de Pompiere, zipped by on rented motor scooters and golf carts.

Off the coast was the Sea Cloud II, a wood-trimmed sailing yacht that had brought fewer than a hundred of us to visit this island.

In fact, the chance to visit small ports that mega-ships can’t or don’t is one of the main reasons people like me are so drawn to Sea Cloud Cruises.

But we’re also fans of the refined style on board, much of which owes to the taste of the turn-of-the-20th century heiress Marjorie Merriweather Post.

Post was no dilettante; she ran a major food company and grew it into an industry powerhouse. But she did enjoy the finer things in life, including intricate Faberge objets, diamond earrings that once belonged to Marie Antoinette, and her Palm Beach estate, Mar-A-Lago.

She also designed the interiors of a four-masted sailing ship, Hussar V, which served as her private yacht. Renamed Sea Cloud in 1935, that original vessel is one of three sail- and motor-yachts now operated by the cruise line. Ours was launched in 2021 and conveys a stately elegance, with spacious cabins, marble bathrooms, polished brass fittings, and rich mahogany paneling. Its three masts support 13 square sails for speed and 10 triangular sails used for maneuverability. “Setting of the sails” is announced in the daily printed program so guests can watch as 15 crew members clamber up the wire ladders to pack and release billowy canvas.

For the hearty and fit, this rigging work can also provide an adrenaline rush: when the seas are calm enough, guests can climb the wires to a platform 45 feet above the deck or crawl into the netting slung from the bowsprit.

When winds are light, engine power keeps Sea Cloud II on track. On this Caribbean itinerary, we set out from St. Maarten, sailed into the chic French port of St. Bart’s, then on to Terre-de-Haut and the rain forests of Dominica.

“I love the idea of the sails and the rigging,” said Jay Readybaugh of Rhode Island, who was on his second Sea Cloud cruise with his wife and friends. “It’s part of a bygone era.”

  • The sails truly power the ship, creating a sense of romance.
  • Elegant touches like burled mahogany wainscots and recessed paneling extend throughout the ship, from the library to the staterooms.
  • Despite the upscale ambiance, the onboard vibe is breezy, with casual entertainment that includes a sea-shanty sing-along with the crew.
  • Many meals are served on the top deck, with fresh salads and proteins grilled before your eyes.
  • Wine, drinks, laundry, tips, and some excursions are included.

The Staterooms

Most cabins are located on two decks. Even the smallest staterooms measure more than 200 square feet and feature rich patterned carpet, gleaming wood furniture and enough closet space for two people. A wooden armoire hides the bar and TV. Beds are made up in the European style, with duvets atop fitted bottom sheets. Two or more portholes provide sunlight.

Junior suites and suites feature similar décor. In these upgraded accommodations, windows, sitting areas, and bathrooms are larger. There are no balconies.

Bars and restaurants

Daily breakfast is served in the main dining room, with a buffet of cold cereals, sliced meats, cheeses, yogurt, and fruit; eggs are cooked to order. Lunch is served on the covered deck, with a choice of soups and fresh salads, and a warm buffet featuring vegetables and proteins such as grilled fish, roasted duck, or ribs. Afternoon tea brings hot and cold beverages and a cookie fix.

Dinner alternates between a casual buffet on deck and a seated meal in the main dining room. The captain’s welcome and farewell dinners start with cocktails and hors d’oeuvres on deck—oysters on the half-shell one night, canapes with caviar another—followed by an elegantly served multi-course dinner. One of the highlights for me was “big fish night,” when the crew carved a giant freshly caught yellowtail into sushi and steaks for grilling.

One thing you won’t find is room service, which isn’t offered.

The heart of the ship is the deck bar, where guests can grab coffee in the mornings and wine and cocktails throughout the day. Cocktails are also served in the lounge during presentations.

Where Sea Cloud II Sails

Deck of a sailing ship with sails set and a crew member visible navigating the open sea under a clear sky
The top deck. Credit: Carolina Bejarano

In winter months, Sea Cloud II sails in the Caribbean, often departing from St. Maarten or Barbados, and stopping at smaller ports including Bequia, Dominica, Jost van Dyke, Îles de Saintes, St. Bart’s, St. Lucia, and Virgin Gorda.

In summer, the yacht heads to the Mediterranean, where Sea Cloud II visits the coasts of Croatia, France, Greece, Italy, Malta, and Spain.

Shore Excursions

In the Caribbean, a few organized excursions are offered in each port. On one memorable outing, I visited the Depaz distillery in Martinique. There, along with other guests from the ship, we learned how the island’s soil, a mix of various sugar canes, and barrel fermentation combine to shape the flavor of rhum agricole.

Other excursions, such as walking tours with knowledgeable local guides and active pursuits like kayaking and snorkeling, are also available—though many guests simply wandered on their own or borrowed snorkeling gear from the ship.

In the Mediterranean, excursions include wine tastings, culinary outings with guest chefs, visits to ancient temples and UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Amenities and Entertainment

The primary entertainment on this small sailing yacht is simply watching the sails and the sea, perhaps with a book from the cozy library or a cold beer from the bar. At least once per trip, the crew hosts a sing-along evening, and there’s often other music on board, whether classical selections on a grand piano or local musicians coming aboard to play Caribbean favorites, like the steel drum band that serenaded us with “One Love.”

Onboard facilities include a small work-out room, massage room, and sauna. A marina platform allows guests to swim and snorkel directly off the ship when conditions permit—but they didn’t during the time I was on board. Given the size of the ship, there aren’t a lot of bells and whistles: for example, there’s no pool, no hot tub, and no casino.

Family-friendly Offerings

While children as young as 12 months are allowed on board, I didn’t see any kids on my sailing. The cruise line notes that “children are welcome on our ships, but please keep in mind there is no daycare or special entertainment for children on board.”

Accessibility

Sea Cloud II isn’t the best choice for those with limited mobility: there are no elevators on the ship, and climbing up and down stairs is the only way to get between decks and into and out of tenders to shore. Sea Cloud describes its fleet of ships as “unsuitable for wheelchair users.”

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