SerpApi.Org
There is something hugely uplifting about setting sail on a ferry: the scent of the sea, the sight of land, the physicality of crossing water in much the same way our ancestors did.
But holidaymakers crossing to the continent by ferry this summer will have one key question: what will be the impact of new checks to enter the European Union – and will there be long delays, particularly at Dover?
Here, we delve into everything you need to know about booking a ferry to Europe this year, from the best routes and where to go once you’ve disembarked to the possibility of queues thanks to the EU’s Entry/Exit System (EES).
In this guide:
- Will there be delays at Dover?
- Before you book
- The routes
- What to pack
- On the ferry
- FAQs
Will there be delays at Dover?
The sheer volume of traffic – always at its peak in the summer season – will inevitably mean tailbacks at Britain’s busiest port.
However, the picture is complicated because, although a new facility has been built in Dover to conform with the EU’s new Entry/Exit System (EES), it has not yet been switched on by the French authorities. Instead, to comply with the new regulations, border officers are creating manual traveller profiles.
Car passenger delays during May half-term highlighted the flaws in this system, when queues at Dover reached up to four hours and the creation of extra profiles had to be suspended.
The authorities at Dover say that similar action will almost certainly have to be taken during the summer period in the event of a repeat of such extended tailbacks. The port advises strongly against arriving earlier than the recommended two hours before sailing time, as there is simply not the capacity to accommodate huge numbers of waiting vehicles.
Dover is the only British port at which EES checks have to be made on British territory, so the issues are more pronounced there. But there could be an impact on sailings from other ports too, particularly when it comes to entry into the EU countries on the other side.
Travellers are advised to check their ferry operator’s websites for live border and travel updates before setting off and to bring plenty of food and water and sources of entertainment in the eventuality of a long wait. A generous supply of patience could also be a plus.
Return to index
Before you book
There are a number of different ticket types, with most lines offering standard and flexible options, which allow you to make changes (date/timings) without punitive charges. And while it is possible to book a last-minute ferry, it pays to book in advance to secure a sailing time that suits you and lower fares – particularly during the peak summer season and holiday periods such as Christmas and Easter. What’s more, it is always worth checking for early bird offers and special promotions on short breaks.
For overnight sailings, the ideal is, of course, a cabin and on some routes (UK-Spain, Harwich-Hook of Holland and Newcastle-Amsterdam) it is mandatory. Cabins on day sailings are also useful places to relax, freshen up, store belongings/shopping and take a nap or shower. They are very handy if travelling with children and/or pets.
Return to index
The routes
France
Dover to Calais
Quick to feel homesick? On a clear day you can see the cliffs of Dover from the beach at Calais. The city boasts a Museum of Fine Arts and Rodin’s astonishingly powerful Burghers of Calais statue. But it’s not the prettiest – for better options head south to Boulogne-sur-Mer and Le Touquet.
Crossing time: One hour 30 minutes (one hour 40 minutes for DFDS)
Operators and return fare: P&O Ferries, from £248; DFDS, from £208 for a car and five passengers (from £208 return also outside summer peak); Irish Ferries, from £210
Dover to Dunkirk
Dunkirk is forever associated with the mass evacuation of allied soldiers in 1940. With its beaches and Operation Dynamo museum, the town remains steeped in that history. Find light relief in the Belle Époque resort of Malo-les-Bains, then head to the almost fairytale-like city of Bruges, just 50 miles away.
Crossing time: Two hours
Operator and return fare: DFDS, from £208 for a car and five passengers
Newhaven-Dieppe
Scallops anyone? They are a delicacy in Dieppe, France’s oldest seaside resort and a town brimming with history and Gallic charm. There are some pretty impressive white cliffs here too, plus it is a mere two-hour drive to Paris.
Crossing time: Four hours
Operator and return fare: DFDS, from £330 (£155 in October)
Portsmouth-Caen
For history buffs, Caen offers a double whammy – the castle built here by William the Conqueror before his invasion of England in 1066 and a museum highlighting the 1944 Battle of Normandy. The D-Day landing beaches are to the north, as is Bayeux, usual home of the famous tapestry soon to go on display in London.
Crossing time: Six hours (day); Eight hours (night)
Operator and return fare: Brittany Ferries, from £345 (£260 in October)
Portsmouth-Cherbourg
The Cotentin Peninsula on which Cherbourg is located has a rugged coastline and a rich maritime legacy – including a museum with artifacts from the Titanic, which stopped here ahead of its fateful Atlantic crossing in 1912.
Crossing time: Five hours (day); eight hours 30 minutes (night)
Operator and return fare: Brittany Ferries, from £345 including en-suite cabin on the outbound overnight sailing (£337 in October)
Portsmouth-Le Havre
Fans of Brutalist/Modernist architecture will love the Église Saint-Joseph, masterwork of Auguste Perret, the man who redesigned the port city of Le Havre after the destruction wrought by the Second World War. Gentler pleasures can be found in the picturesque nearby town of Honfleur.
Crossing time: Six and a half hours (day); 10 hours, 45 minutes (night)
Operator and return fare: Brittany Ferries, from £348 including en-suite cabin on return overnight sailing; route likely to be discontinued in October
Portsmouth-St Malo
With fortified walls dating back to the 12th century, a seawater pool right on the beach and multiple seafaring legends, St Malo is a great place to walk the ramparts, wander along cobbled streets – and breathe wonderful air.
Crossing time: Eight hours, 45 minutes (day); 11 hours 30 minutes (night)
Operator and return fare: Brittany Ferries, from £494 including en-suite cabin on the outbound overnight sailing (£391 in late October)
Poole-Cherbourg
In addition to the attractions of Cherbourg (see above), the Cotentin Peninsula is also home to Barfleur, a traditional fishing port with a grand lighthouse and a reputation for excellent wild mussels. Stunning tidal island Mont Saint Michel is just two hours’ drive south.
Crossing time: Four hours, 45 minutes (day)
Operator and return fare: Brittany Ferries, from £240; route will be discontinued in November
Poole-St Malo
Beyond the port city itself, St Malo is a gateway to Brittany. Dinard, the “Pearl of the Emerald Coast”, is a 10-minute ferry ride away; the riverside town of Dinan and Mont St Michel are short drives to the south and east.
Crossing time: Six hours (daytime only)
Operator and return fare: Brittany Ferries, from £424
Plymouth-Roscoff
For lovers of stereotypes – Frenchmen with striped jerseys, black berets and strings of onions – Roscoff is the very town from which those “Onion Johnnies” came. Find out more at La Maison des Johnnies. This Breton port is also famous for its rejuvenating seawater and marine mud spas.
Crossing time: Six hours 30 minutes (day); 11 hours (night)
Operator and return fare: Brittany Ferries, from £392 including en-suite cabin on the outbound overnight crossing
Spain
Portsmouth-Bilbao
The Frank Gehry-designed Guggenheim Museum transformed the decaying port of Bilbao into a sensational cultural destination attracting both art lovers and foodies keen to tuck into amazing pintxos (Basque for tapas). More excellent dining awaits in nearby San Sebastian, where you can stroll along the famous Concha Promenade.
Crossing time: 30 hours
Operator and return fare: Brittany Ferries, from £1,067, including four-berth cabin both ways (£711 in October)
Portsmouth-Santander
A far cry from the classic Spanish costas, the northern Costa Verde (Green Coast) offers a mixture of mountains, beaches and rustic charm. Santander itself is prized for its Centro Botín modern art gallery, villa-clad El Sardinero Beach and dramatically located Palacio de la Magdalena.
Crossing time: 29 to 33 hours
Operator and return fare: Brittany Ferries, from £1,104, including four-berth cabin both ways (£745 in October)
Plymouth-Santander
Santander serves as a great gateway to the Picos de Europa, a sensational mountain range offering jagged peaks, gorges and lush green valleys. Enjoy its scenic splendours by foot, bicycle or car – then cool off in the cooling waters of the nearby sea.
Crossing time: 20 hours
Operator and return fare: Brittany Ferries, from £1,104, including four-berth cabin both ways (£745 in October)
Netherlands
Harwich-Hook of Holland
This journey gets you to within striking distance of two very different Dutch cities, The Hague and Rotterdam. In the former, swoon at Johannes Vermeer’s sublime Girl with a Pearl Earring; in the latter, Piet Blom’s tilted Cube Houses certainly put a new slant on things.
Crossing time: Seven hours, 15 minutes to eight hours
Operator and return fare: Stena Line, from £300.80
Hull-Rotterdam
Badly damaged in the war, Rotterdam cannot claim to be a natural beauty. But there is a fascination to its Modernist architecture and an energy that comes from being the busiest port in Europe. The medieval German city of Aachen is two and a half hours’ drive away.
Crossing time: 11 hours, 15 minutes
Operator and return fare: P&O Ferries, from £1,268 including a four-berth cabin (£692 in October)
Newcastle-Amsterdam
You could fill an entire holiday wandering or cycling along Amsterdam’s city-defining canals, diving into its world-class art galleries and gorging on its legendary stroopwafels (waffles with a caramel filling). The arguably equally pretty (but less busy) city of Haarlem is just 15 minutes by train.
Crossing time: 15 hours, 45 minutes
Operator and return fare: DFDS, from £1,152 including a four-berth inside cabin (£594 off-season)
Prices first listed are based on one-week return sailings July-September and include car and a maximum of between four and nine passengers, unless otherwise stated, and the EU-imposed ETS environmental surcharge; for the longer journeys, fares include cabin on overnight crossings. Cheaper fares are often available for shorter breaks. For further route information visit Discover Ferries.
Return to index
What to pack
In terms of what you need to have with you on the day, in addition to your passport, don’t forget a valid driving licence, vehicle insurance, vehicle registration document, UK sticker (in some countries, a UK identifier on the number plate is sufficient), warning triangle, reflective jacket, and authorisation if driving in areas covered by low-emission zones.
You might also, if susceptible, bring seasickness pills. Modern ferries, like cruise ships, are much more stable than they used to be but they are not completely still.
Return to index
On the ferry
All ferries will have outlets selling food and drink, many much improved on the traditional basic canteen-style offering. Other 21st century enhancements include better children’s play areas, cinemas and areas for video games (including PlayStations). Pet lounges and pet cabins have also become a common feature.
When it comes to Wi-Fi, there is generally a limited service free of charge or an enhanced package for a fee. It is provided by satellite, so won’t be as fast as at home. If needed, download media in advance. Or make more of your surroundings and the sea; some cruise lines offer whale- and dolphin-watching from the deck.
Don’t forget on disembarking that you will need to drive on the right-hand side of the road.
Return to index
FAQs
When should I arrive for my sailing?
Passengers are advised to arrive no more than two hours before sailing, with check-in closing 45 to 60 minutes before departure. If you need special assistance or are travelling with pets, you may need to factor in more time.
What luggage can you take?
As much as will fit in your car/van and on any roof rack. If travelling as a foot passenger, you need to be able to carry your own bags on board so it is recommended to bring a maximum of two pieces of luggage weighing up to 20kg in total, plus hand luggage. Check relevant websites for further information.
Can you see dolphins from a ferry?
Yes. On Brittany Ferries sailings to Spain it is common to see dolphins and fin whales – the company runs sea safari cruises complete with guides. Even in the English Channel and North Sea, you can find harbour porpoises, bottlenose dolphins and common dolphins.
Can you bring back booze?
Yes, duty-free allowances are fairly generous – including up to 18 litres of wine and four litres of spirits. For the full allowance, visit the Government’s website.
This article was first published in June 2025, and has been revised and updated.
