SerpApi.Org
I will never be bored sharing all the places in Alaska that we love. Getting to visit Alaska is a real treat and millions of people plan trips and visit every year, but if you talk with a lot of first time, or even second time visitors, they often share the same places that they visited doing an AK road trip: Anchorage, Seward, Talkeetna, Denali. Or they visited on an Inside Passage cruise with three thousand of their closest friends, stopping in Juneau, Skagway and Icy Strait. There’s nothing wrong with this, but there’s a whole lot more of Alaska to see. We put together a different sort of trip, an off-beat Alaska road trip that was part driving, part ferry, and part mountain adventures including visits to Valdez, McCarthy, Whittier and Chickaloon.
This unique Alaska summer road trip is a loop that you can do starting in Anchorage and using the regular highways, the Alaska Marine Highway System and the off-the-beaten-path roads that most rental car companies don’t want you to drive on. We have lots of tips and great information for making this very different summer Alaska adventure happen for YOU. If you have any questions about the different destinations we include or recommendations for planning, please leave a comment or send us a note. We’re happy to share more and help you put together a fun, unique visit to Alaska.
Planning a DIFFERENT sort of Alaska Vacation
Every trip to Alaska will be a little different depending on when you visit, who you’re with and what activities you have planned, but also knowing that the towns and regions in AK are very different from each other helps you put together a unique Alaska vacation plan. There is nothing wrong with a standard, out-of-the-box itinerary, but I do love getting to visit places and tell others about my trip and them be completely surprised by my stories. But this trip is for YOU, not them, so make it unique in a way that you’ll enjoy.
Want to get this itinerary for easy access later? DOWNLOAD it here for free!
Going Off the Beaten Path in AK
I think a lot of people are looking to have travel experiences unlike what they normally see, meaning that they want to be away from the crowds and visit places that just aren’t the go-to spot for most visitors. I really don’t love the term “off the beaten path” but sometimes it fits. For this unique Alaska trip we’re visiting towns that people probably have heard of but don’t know much about. And we’re not visiting the primary outdoorsy locations that most people see, but instead we’re checking out two different mountain ranges that are just as beautiful (maybe more!)
Also, even for us, a lot of our trips around Alaska include the same things: hiking, driving around looking for wildlife, probably kayaking… So on this trip we’re doing more adventurous versions of these activities and adding some new stuff: whitewater rafting and fishing! Taking a different approach to a trip we do often made it really fun, and also more engaging for our kids.
NEED TO KNOW: Rental Cars for Off-beat Alaska Road Trips
I have to talk about something many people don’t consider when they’re planning to drive in Alaska. Before we get too into the meat of planning a unique road trip and plotting out the drives on interesting highways, you have to know something about renting a car in Alaska: you cannot just drive them wherever you want. Rental car companies do have GPS tracking and policies stating that there are certain roads you cannot venture onto with their cars. The reason for this is the nature of some of these highways is much more rough than just an ill-maintained road, but it’s some intense wear and tear on the cars.
For this specific Alaska road trip plan, we do have two of the restricted highways on our travel plan, the Edgerton Highway and the McCarthy Road. While the Edgerton is very well maintained, in my opinion, it’s restricted by most rental companies because it can be rough if there’s been a lot of heaving or land movement, and then because it is the gateway highway to the McCarthy Road. Now, the McCarthy Road is a 60 mile gravel road (one way) that takes two hours to drive. It’s rough, it’s windy in places, and the rocks fly when other cars pass you. For this road trip, you need to rent a car from one of the local Alaska rental agencies, and it’ll likely be GoNorth Alaska. GoNorth Alaska Rentals have 4WD vehicles, SUVs and midsized SUVs with full size spare tires, and they also rent campers (if that’s what you’d like to do).
If you stick with our unique Alaska road trip plan then you’ll begin and end in Anchorage, but if you want to spice it up a bit, GoNorth Alaska also has a rental depot up in Fairbanks… or you can arrange to drive it all the way back down via the AlCan or Cassiar Highways through the Yukon and British Columbia, returning to the depot in Seattle. There are lots of options, but at the end of the day, this is the best option for renting a car that you can take on the rough and gravel roads.
Check out GoNorth Alaska Rentals. Use discount code GON2TD for a free mileage package with your vehicle rental. Be sure to use the code to get the mileage deal!
Unique Things to Do on THIS Alaska Trip
Some of the highlights people return from Alaska talking about are things like flightseeing and dogsledding and such, or doing the guided tour at Denali National Park or Kenai Fjords National Parks. On this unique Alaska road trip we’re not doing those things. Instead, we’re hiking on glaciers and we’re whitewater rafting. That’s right, Alaska is actually awesome for whitewater rafting, and the outfitters know the water is cold, so they have the right gear to make it both safe and enjoyable, and I have to say, rafting in AK is both really fun and very special.
While there are lots of opportunities to kayak in Alaska, there aren’t many places that you can paddle at the face of a glacier and navigate through icebergs, but you get to do that on this unique Alaska road trip! Our vacation plan includes visiting both the Valdez Glacier and glacial lake AND the waterways at the end of the Kennicott Glacier, and I have to say, these are some of the most unique, prettiest kayaking spots we’ve ever paddled in AK.
Off-Beat Alaska Summer Vacation Plan
Here is a fool-proof, fun and unique Alaska summer road trip plan that I know you’ll enjoy. It does take some coordination for dates that the Alaska Marine Highway has a ferry going between ports, but it shouldn’t be too difficult to sort out, as the ferry between Whittier and Valdez usually goes two days a week in the summer. Once you lock in what day you’re sailing on the ferry, the rest of your trip will easily fall into place. As you look at the itinerary we have below, we’ve suggested how many days are good for each home-base town, as well as notes on where we’ve stayed before, but you can be flexible and make it fit your own timeline.
Fun in Portage Valley
On day one you’ll arrive in Anchorage, Alaska. We’re going to switch it up to make this road trip unique by sending you right out of town, heading south on the Seward Highway. If your flight arrives early in the day or late, plan on spending the night in Anchorage (find an Anchorage International Airport hotel here!). The next morning when you head south, enjoy making stops along the way before getting to your first scheduled activity. Here are some stops you can easily do along the way to Girdwood:
- Potter Marsh and boardwalks near Anchorage
- McHugh Creek Trail in Chugach State Park
- Stop at Beluga Point to look for… beluga whales
- Hike the Turnagain Arm Trail Windy Corner on Seward Highway, look for Dall sheep
- Stop at Indian Valley Mine on Seward highway (touristy, kitschy)
- Bird Valley and Bird Creek Trails include easy options or hiking to waterfalls
- Girdwood day visit - just pop into town for coffee or lunch
- Photo op at Bird Point with the beluga sculptures, part of Chugach State Park
- Hike the Portage Creek Trail, easy but can be wet
- Enjoy the Explorer Glacier Trail or part of the Trail of Blue Ice
That’s plenty of things to do along the short drive to the Portage Valley, but you don’t even have to do any of those things and you can just go right to the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center. Here you’ll get to see moose and bears up close, actually see musk oxen and foxes, and if you’re lucky, the lynx might even come out. It’s a great spot to learn a little something and see wildlife in a sanctuary setting.
Next up, drive up the Portage Valley to do the Portage Glacier Cruise on the lake. This is the first glacier visit of this unique Alaska road trip, but it won’t be the last. I really like the Portage Glacier Cruise because you get to be on a lake (great for people who get seasick) and the scenery is amazing, with waterfalls all around, turquoise waters, and then the Portage Glacier too. After your cruise, you can either do the Byron Glacier Trail, which is pretty easy and also really beautiful (and it’s another glacier) or you can visit the Chugach National Forest Begich Bogs Visitor Center.
When you’re done in the Portage Valley, make your way to the Anderson Tunnel where you’ll drive through the 2.5 mile one lane tunnel into Whittier. There is a toll for the tunnel and it is on a schedule, so time your entry properly so you’re not sitting around for an hour. You'll overnight in Whittier this night.
Visiting Whittier, Alaska
When you exit the Anderson Tunnel into Whittier you’ll see that this small, off the beaten path Alaska town is set in the most beautiful area at the end of a fjord. It’s a gorgeous place to visit, especially when the sun comes out, but it is known for being gray and rainy.
Once you’re in town, you can plan to spend either one or two nights here, depending on what you want to do while you’re in Whittier. Maybe you want to explore a little on foot, so you can check out the marina and the “downtown”, and then there’s actually a tunnel from the ferry terminal to the other side of the tracks, but then not much to see on that side. There are lots of small hikes you can fill your time with, the Horsetail Falls hike being my favorite, and then there are lots of opportunities to get out on the water. If you want to start your unique Alaska trip with a boat tour and whale watching, you can do either the Philips 26 Glacier Cruise or you can do a cool shore-landing boat with Lazy Otter Tours. Both are fun and a good way to launch your time on Prince William Sound.
There’s not a ton else to do in Whittier, which is why we recommend it as a one-night destination unless you’re doing an all day tour on the water as well. When you are here, you’ll see why this is an off-the-beaten-path destination that few people get to visit. There are very limited services, really only two places to stay in town, and limited restaurants. Most residents all live in one building, the Begich Tower, and yeah, that’s it for Whittier. Your main purpose of being here though is to get on the ferry to Valdez, which is typically an afternoon sailing.
Sleep in: Whittier for one night, two nights if you’ve booked an all-day boat trip for fishing or whale watching.
Where to stay: hotel options in Whittier are very limited. The Inn at Whittier is the nicest place to stay, and they have a nice restaurant on property. There are some suites you can rent for a few nights in the Begich Tower, but that option is very limited.
Taking the Alaska Marine Highway on Prince William Sound
We've done several trips on the ferry between different Alaska port, so we've been on a few different boats. The MV Aurora is the standard ferry boat that services the route between Whittier and Valdez on the Alaska Marine Highway. Getting to have a day on the water instead of driving is one thing that makes this Alaska road trip so unique and fun. You need to arrive at the ferry terminal plenty early and get checked in, and then when you’re loaded onto the boat, it’s quite the puzzle the ferry workers put together to load vehicles efficiently, as it’s not the biggest ship in the fleet. Once you’re underway, you just get to relax and enjoy the amazing views as you sail through Prince William Sound.
On board, it’s kind of its own whale watching tour, but the ship won’t stop to watch the humpbacks and orcas when they show up. It’s still really cool though and you’ll see everything from whales to bald eagles to sea otters and sea lions. The galley onboard opens for meal service, usually dinner, but stays closed most of the sailing, so you’ll want to be sure to bring snacks and drinks on board with you.
When you make it into Port Valdez (the name of the harbor where the town is located), the views are just astounding. You’ll slowly unload the ferry and be into town by 8:30 pm or so (if it’s the 2:45 pm ferry). From here, make your way to your hotel and relax for the night, because you’ll have lots of fun things to do in Valdez.
Sleep in: Valdez, for two to four nights *see below
Where to stay: downtown has quite a few options for where to stay, including a few really nice spots. There are some vacation rentals around town, and then plenty of campgrounds, including a nice KOA with cabins. Also the Chugach Naswik Suites or Totem Hotel are great options.
Exploring Valdez, Alaska
Valdez is a great destination because it’s very different from other small towns in Alaska. It feels like it’s bigger because it has a touch of industry to it (this is where the Trans-Alaska Pipeline ends) but then it still just has a simple downtown strip with marinas and waterfront. The closest comparison I could make is Seward, but with far fewer visitors. The businesses are all very local and many are family run, from the fun and delicious crepe wagon, 7Cs, to the small kayaking operation on the edge of town. I love the community vibe of Valdez, because as you walk around, everyone knows everyone and they’re all so friendly. It’s one of the off the beaten path places in Alaska that you can tell enjoys and appreciates the tourism that comes to town.
So what is there to do in Valdez? So much! I think there are two activities that really show off how unique this part of Alaska is: kayaking on the Valdez Glacier lake and doing the Stan Stephens Wildlife and Glacier Cruise. Starting with kayaking, this is one of the coolest and most unusual kayaking spots we’ve been to. You launch just above the outflow from the glacier, so all the icebergs and chunks from the Valdez glacier have made their way here, creating an ice maze that you have to figure out how to paddle through, and then when you make it through the labyrinth you have this gorgeous lake with countless waterfalls pouring into it, and then a calving glacier at the end of it. Unique, epic and unforgettable. Self-guided kayak rentals are available through Stay & Play Valdez
For wildlife, the Stan Stephens Wildlife and Glacier Cruise is pretty awesome for getting out into Prince William Sound. Leaving from the main marina area, there is a ton of wildlife just right there in Port Valdez with sea otters rafting together and bald eagles all around. Then navigating the fjords you’ve got whales and sea lions, leading to more otters and seals, and then finally a calving tidewater glacier (either the Meares or Columbia Glacier). Round out the experience with puffins and more epic scenery and it’s absolutely perfect. You can book with Stephens Cruises using code MyAKtrip10 for a 10% discount.
Of course there’s more to do in Valdez between wildlife watching and visiting the Solomon Fish Hatchery or checking out the fascinating Whitney Museum (really cool collection!), but we’ll let you discover some things on your own. After you’ve had three or four days here, it’s time to drive the Richardson Highway to your next destination. Head through the breathtaking Keystone Canyon and up over Thompson Pass to our next stop.
Sleep in: Valdez for 2-4 nights, 3 nights works well if you keep yourself busy
Where to stay: downtown has quite a few options for where to stay, including a few really nice spots. There are some vacation rentals around town, and then plenty of campgrounds, including a nice KOA with cabins. We loved staying in the 2 bedroom chalet at the KOA in Valdez.
Driving the Richardson and Edgerton Highways
I love this unique Alaska road trip plan because you get to enjoy two of the state’s most beautiful highways, the Richardson and Edgerton Highways. Starting in Valdez, the Richardson leads you along the Lowe River through Keystone Canyon, which I would call one of the wonders of Alaska. This winding road has some incredible waterfalls pouring down on both sides of the highways and then leads you up, climbing to incredible views of the mountainous landscape until you get to Thompson Pass. Here you can do a number of short hikes that show off the sights of both sides of the pass, before beginning your descent towards your next stop.
The Worthington Glacier is a unique thing to do on your drive as it’s just off the Richardson Highway and is wheelchair accessible to the viewpoint of the glacier. There’s a trail that leads you up the glacial creek gorge to the toe of the glacier, but you need to be wary and safe. This is a precarious trail and if you don’t understand how glaciers move and shift, you can put yourself in danger, so be smart about it. It’s really cool though.
The next stop is at Liberty Falls State Recreation Site. This may be a campground, but it’s also an awesome picnic spot and one of the prettiest waterfalls you’ll get to see on this trip. You can just take a few minutes to relax with the best sounding waterfall in Alaska, watching the butterflies and enjoying nature, and then when you’re ready, finish your drive on the Edgerton Highway, stopping in Chitina for gas and snacks.
IMPORTANT: When you get to Chitina you must get gas. Once you start onto the McCarthy Road, it is 60 miles of gravel with no services. At the end of the road you’ll park your car for the duration of your time in McCarthy and Kennicott and then you have another 60 mile gravel drive back. You do not want to run out of gas.
While in Chitina, watch for moose and trumpeter swans in the lakes, and then when you’re ready, drive through the cut in the mountain to begin the two hour drive to McCarthy. It’s beautiful and there are lots of scenic stops to make, including waysides with history exhibits and restrooms (pit toilets). It’s a fun drive, but it’s rough. You’ll be glad you have a car that’s good on gravel roads for this trip. See above regarding renting a car that’s approved for the Edgerton Highway and McCarthy Road.
McCarthy and Kennicott, Wrangell-St Elias National Park
Yay! You made it to the end of the McCarthy Road! Now what? Well, you need to park your car (follow signs and pay for daily parking) and unload your things from your vehicle, walking them over to the footbridge. You’ll be able to load your luggage onto a wagon that you’ll pull across the Kennicott River where you’ll meet your shuttle for your accommodations. If you’re staying at the McCarthy Lodge Resort (Ma Johnson’s, the Rose House, Lancaster Backpacker or the Bluebell House) you’ll ride the Copper Town Shuttle. If you’re staying at the Kennicott Glacier Lodge or one of the other small lodges, you’ll follow the shuttle instructions they’ve provided in advance (some have their own shuttles). When you arrive in McCarthy, you’ve seen the town. That’s it. It’s cute, it’s historic, and it’s basically run by dogs. Very off-the-beaten-path and cool.
While you’re here, this unique town is your launch point for rafting, glacier hiking, visiting the historic Kennecott Mine National Historic Landmark, doing some epic hikes in Wrangell-St Elias National Park and more. If you’re limited for time, the two activities you cannot skip are hiking on the Root Glacier and whitewater rafting on the Kennicott River. While you could do the hike to Root Glacier on your own, there’s no place to rent crampons in town and you must wear them to hike ON the glacier. It’s ice, the whole thing, and you have to wear ice spikes for your own safety. Also, if you don’t know a lot about glaciers and think it’s safe just to hike all over them on your own, think twice. The reason there are guides (we went with Kennicott Wilderness Guides) is because this is an inherently dangerous activity and you need skills and knowledge for it to be safe, thus making it also fun.
Now, I know not everyone loves whitewater rafting the way our family does (check out our multi-day rafting trip in Utah!) but it’s such a fun and easy activity you can plan when you’re in McCarthy. This is not your usual Alaska thing to do for most people because so many visitors imagine it just being too cold or at least the river being too cold to be on the water. We went out with McCarthy River Guides who fully outfitted us with dry-suites and water shoes, making sure we were both safe and warm for our rafting trip. It was really unique because we started with a simple paddle on the Kennicott Glacial Lake, exploring the toe of the glacier and the grounded icebergs, and then we hit the river. Class II and III rapids made it a fun run through the Kennicott Valley to our takeout on the west side of McCarthy. It was beautiful and is the perfect whitewater rafting experience for a beginner or somebody that just needs that blast of adrenaline you get when you’re on a river. You can book with McCarthy River tours using code MyAKtrip10 for 10% off your booking.
Of course while you’re here you’ll need to pop over to the tiny town of Kennicott to visit the historic mill. You can do a tour if you want to go into the actual big building (it’s one of Alaska’s icons), but there are lots of free exhibits for you to check out on your own, as well as a great visitor center. McCarthy also has its own small museum you can visit, and sometimes there are town events that visitors are welcome to participate in.
Sleep in: 3 nights is perfect for McCarthy or Kennicott; McCarthy has more happening and more food options so it’s our pick for which location to stay at.
Where to stay: the McCarthy Lodge Resort has the most off-beat accommodations, either at the old mining hotel, Ma Johnsons, or in the Rose House Hotel (rent the full thing, 4 BD) which used to be a bordello. There’s a hostel that’s a part of the McCarthy Lodge Resort as well, and then there are different small cabin collections around the valley. In Kennicott, the primary lodging is the Kennicott Glacier Lodge, which is also vintage and looks out at the rock covered Kennicott Glacier.
The Copper River Valley
As we continue with our unique Alaska road trip, our next destination isn’t too far of a drive, and it's one of the iconic Alaska experiences that so many people overlook. You have to do the McCarthy Road one more time, but now in reverse, and then you’ll drive back along the Edgerton Highway until you get to the Richardson Highway and head north towards Copper Center. You have already crossed the very large Copper River a few times, and now we get to enjoy the valley! The town of Copper Center itself is very small and doesn’t have a lot going on. There is an old railroad park that sometimes has cookouts and live music, but then each night serves up BBQ and drinks at the saloon, and then there’s the Copper Center Inn and Restaurant, and you’ve got your fishing guides.
That’s why you’re here! While the Copper River is huge and famous for its salmon, if you want to actually catch Copper River salmon you’ll need to go fishing on the Klutina River, which is a major tributary of the Copper. 60% of the salmon heading up the Copper River are on their way to the Klutina River, so it’s much easier to catch them in the narrow waterway instead of the vast, braided Copper River. Head out for a full or half day salmon fishing adventure with Copper River Guides to get the full experience. Everybody loves to eat the fish, but it’s unique to actually get to catch them. You’ll raft on the Klutina River (Class II and III rapids), stopping along the way to try different fishing holes, and hopefully by the time you’re done you’ll have caught your fill of sockeye salmon!
Note: the Alaska Dept of Fish and Game is very tight on allowing king salmon (chinook) to be caught, so if that’s your goal, check with your guide in advance. The season may be open for kings when you book but then closed all of the sudden based on the ADFG instructions.
While you’re in Copper Center, be sure that you also visit the Wrangell-St Elias National Park Visitor Center. It has some great exhibits all about the wildlife and geology of the Copper Valley and Wrangell Mountains, as well as a whole building dedicated to Ahtna history and culture. The Ahtna peoples are the indigenous nation who’ve called the Copper River Valley home for thousands of years. One more thing you can’t miss while you’re enjoying the area is visiting the Tonsina River Lodge for dinner. This isn’t a fancy lodge, but is a small, local spot with an awesome restaurant serving up traditional Russian food. The Tonsina Lodge is such a hidden gem and it’s 100% worth planning a visit for dinner. You MUST MAKE A RESERVATION, not because it’s fancy but because it’s a very small operation and they don’t have the ability to do lots of seatings each night.
Sleep in: Copper Center, 2 nights is perfect for being able to fish and explore the area a bit; more than 2 nights isn’t practical
Where to stay: the Copper River Princess Lodge is beautiful and is the nicest accommodations in the valley. The Tonsina Lodge also has rooms in addition to the restaurant, and they even have a Russian sauna for guests! There are also some nice vacation rentals and cabins in the area. We’ve stayed at the Princess Lodge and at this cute cabin on Tonsina Creek.
Chickaloon and the Matanuska River Valley
As our off-beat, unique Alaska road trip winds down, we have a bit more adventure to enjoy with glaciers in another oft-overlooked area: Chickaloon in the Matanuska Valley. The Glenn Highway connects Anchorage to the Alaska Highway into the Yukon, so as you’re traveling back to your starting point, not only do you get some epic landscape views, you also get some great opportunities to have one last Alaska adventure before you depart. Top pick: whitewater rafting on the Matanuska River! I know I’m pushing a lot of rafting, but this is a very different sort of visit to Alaska, so lean into it and do the cold water challenge!
NOVA Alaska Rafting is the only guide service that rafts in the whitewater of the Matanuska River, and it’s a really fun section called the Lion’ Head. A combination of Class III and IV rapids, it’s the most exciting rafting available for this Alaska road trip plan. In general, rafting on the Matanuska is for ages 12 and up, so you know it’s a fun river. The NOVA guides are hilarious and they’re all about safety, so if you’re up for a bit of a challenge, you can feel confident with this trip. Also, you’re in a dry suit for the whitewater rafting, so don’t worry about the freezing cold glacier water. Check out NOVA Alaska Rafting here! Use code MyAKtrip10 for a 10% discount on adventures with NOVA Alaska.
In the same relative area there are a few other activities before you head back to Anchorage. First, there’s lunch at the Long Rifle Lodge. It’s an Alaska icon with its top-hat-wearing taxidermy and unobstructed views of the Matanuska Glacier. Next, stop at the Matanuska Glacier State Recreation Site for more views and a great trail that step by step explains glaciation through a series of hilarious, but scientifically accurate, exhibits. Lastly, if you happen to have the gear in your car, stop off at the Caribou Creek wayside on the Glenn Highway for some gold panning. This is the only public gold panning site left where you can pan without a claim and keep what you find.
From here, complete the drive back to Anchorage. If you’re continuing on and adding to your Alaska road trip, you can do things like visit Hatcher Pass, explore around Palmer, or plan a day or two in Anchorage. Alaska in the summer is really fun, and even though we’ve had a blast exploring off the beaten path, if you have the time and budget to keep going, add on some of the more traditional summertime stops like Seward and Denali National Park.
Simple Unique Alaska Road Trip Itinerary w/ Download
I know that was a lot to read, but now you have a great plan for having a wonderful and very different sort of Alaska summer road trip. I am 100% confident that you’ll have an awesome time doing this off-beat Alaska road trip. It truly is a unique summer experience and one that will rival other adventures you’ve had either in AK or the lower 48. If you have any questions about our recommendations or need some more ideas for activities or lengthening your road trip, please leave a comment or send us a note. We’re always happy to share more and help you plan an amazing Alaska adventure!
Feel free to download the simplified version of this unique Alaska road trip plan and have fun!
