I’ve Visited the Florida Keys for 27 Years—and This Is the Most Charming Small Town in the Region

With its Old Florida charm, Tavernier still has my heart.

Tavernier, Florida

• Order a decadent espresso martini flight at the Crooked Palm Cabana cocktail bar.
• Start your day with a cafécito at Sunrise Cuban Market—the sugar and caffeine rush is sure to wake you up.
• Overnight in a houseboat at Mangrove Marina and keep your eyes peeled for manatee sightings.
• Visit the Florida Keys Wild Bird Center, a sanctuary for injured migratory birds.
• Take a tour of the Blond Giraffe Key Lime Pie Factory and end your visit with a sweet treat.

It only takes eight minutes to drive from the beginning to the end of Tavernier Key. But this tiny community, located near the southern end of Key Largo, is packed with rich history, historic inns, and miles of gorgeous ocean views. I grew up visiting the Florida Keys, and it's truly one of my favorite places to visit.

Take it from Chris Trentine, who was born and raised in the area and now owns the Crooked Palm Cabana cocktail bar. To him, Tavernier is one of those places in the Keys that still has local, small-town charm. "Anytime something happens, everybody comes together—if you need a favor, like your car breaking down, you’ll know somebody around who can help you," he says. "That's what makes the community so special.”

Tavernier has a storied past. The area was once home to the Calusa and Tequesta Indigenous peoples, but was named "Tavernier" when the Spanish arrived in the area around the 17th century. But the city that travelers see today was largely the result of the boom that came after 1912, when the Florida East Coast Railway's Overseas Railroad (commissioned by Standard Oil founder, Henry Flagler) was completed. And once the Overseas Highway was completed in 1938, Tavernier quickly became a popular destination among tourists.

You can still get a taste of old Florida by strolling through the town's historic district and visiting the many mom-and-pop shops that are still there—it's one of my favorite things to do when I'm in the area.

Here's what you need to know before planning a trip to Tavernier, Florida.

Best Hotels & Resorts

Coconut Palm Inn

For Florida history buffs, it's hard to think of a better place to stay than the Coconut Palm Inn. The property was built in 1947 by Herbert Alley, an engineer. He constructed the building using rubble generated by a hurricane that wrecked the area in 1935, as well as steel rails leftover from the construction of the Overseas Railroad, with the intent for it to withstand the strongest of storms—you can still see the rails in some of its 19 rooms. The pool overlooks the ocean, so you can sip your piña coladas while taking in that Gulf breeze.

The Aqua Villas at Mangrove Marina

While this may seem like an ordinary accommodation to locals, most visitors will probably get a kick out of this pick. For the true Florida experience, I recommend staying in a houseboat during your time in Tavernier. The 12 Aqua Villas at Mangrove Marina are some of the best in the area, and come equipped with a full bath, kitchenette, and outdoor patio. Let the bayside be your backyard as you sip your coffee on the porch—and keep your eyes peeled for manatee neighbors. 

Atlantic Bay Resort

There are just 19 rooms at this dreamy resort, and I recommend staying in one of its cottages, which are just steps from the beach and the pool. In traditional South Floridian fashion, all the units have a nicely sized porch as well, perfect for watching the sunset. This hotel is also a great pick for boaters, since there's a dock you can use during your stay.

Ocean Pointe Suites at Key Largo

Don’t let the name of this hotel fool you—Ocean Pointe Suites at Key Largo is indeed located in Tavernier and is next to some of the best attractions in the city. This sprawling property is set on 60 acres, and every room here is a suite. There's also a nice selection of amenities, including two pools and a tennis court. 

Best Things to Do

Visit a wild bird sanctuary.

Founded in 1984, the Florida Keys Wild Bird Center was created by local teacher Laura Quinn and veterinarian Robert Foley, who teamed up to turn their passion for birds into a purpose-driven mission. The Florida Keys is a migratory flyway for over 100 bird species, and the center helps an average of 750 animals each year. Some feathered friends, however, can never quite recuperate well enough to handle life in the wild again, and you can visit them at the center.

Molasses Reef Lighthouse

The lighthouse was established in 1921 and is located about eight miles offshore. Unlike most lighthouses, it has a funky skeleton-like exterior. However, the vibrant scene below the waves is what truly makes this a worthwhile spot to visit. While here, divers can see a veritable rainbow of Keys marine life, encompassing barracudas, turtles, coral, and more. 

Fish for tarpon in the bay.

Tavernier borders the nearby town of Islamorada, the “sportfishing capital of the world”—but the fish don’t know about city limits. Climb aboard Captain Duane Baker’s Flats Fly-Fishing Florida Keys tour, which gives you the chance to fly-fish in the Florida backcountry. Unlike deepwater tours, this one will take you through the mangroves as you search for tarpon, bonefish, and snapper.

Watch planes at an ocean airstrip.

Even if you don’t have a private plane, this unique, residential airstrip is still worth a visit. TavernAero Airport Park is located at mile marker 90 on the Overseas Highway and is a great place to watch small aircraft come and go—it also has its own marina. It’s one of the underrated attractions in the area, according to Trentine. “You have a private airstrip with houses on both sides right next to Tavernier Creek,” he said. “It’s completely original.”

The Toilet Seat Cut

This is perhaps one of the Keys’ most interesting and quirky attractions. This 60-foot-wide manmade channel was created in the 1950s as a shortcut between the western and eastern ends of Plantation Key. In 1960, Hurricane Donna left a toilet seat hanging from a mangrove branch—and the rest is history. Today, more than 250 creatively decorated toilet seats can be found throughout the passageway. “We have a family toilet bowl, and others use the seats to celebrate engagements, weddings, funerals, and big parties,” says Trentine.

Best Shopping

Jolene’s Hidden Treasures & Boutiques

Florida has a reputation as a retirees' paradise, and Jolene’s Hidden Treasures & Boutiques has the vintage clothes to prove it. The thrift store is packed with vintage Harley-Davidson Motorcycle shirts, Tommy Bahama button-ups, and high-quality linens. This is also a heaven for knick-knack lovers—or if you’re like me and have too many, it’s a nightmare.

Nightlife

Dillon’s Pub and Grill

Dillon's Pub and Grill is a favorite stop among locals after a long day in the sun. My family and I frequently found ourselves watching Saturday night football or grabbing a late-night bite here.

Crooked Palm Cabana

Trentine opened the Crooked Palm Cabana after the success of its sister property, The Islamorada Brewery & Distillery. It’s a fantastic place to take in the Florida sunset or to have brunch cocktails—I’m a fan of the espresso martini flight.

Mar Bar

The Mar Bar is tucked away in an easy-to-miss plaza, but it has some of the best stone crab, drinks, and desserts in town. And if you’re not a fan of crab, there are also things like ceviche, conch salad, and fish dip on the menu. Pro tip: There’s nothing quite like an ice-cold beer with stone crab.

Best Restaurants

Blond Giraffe Key Lime Pie Factory

You can't go to the Keys without indulging in a slice of key lime pie, and luckily, Blond Giraffe Key Lime Pie Factory is regarded as one of the best in the state. If you want an unconventional taste of an iconic treat, try a frozen chocolate-covered slice, which is bound to hit the spot after a hot day. 

Sunrise Cuban Market & Café

Whenever my family and I used to start our mornings at Sunrise Cuban Market & Café, I knew it would be a good day. It opens bright and early at 5 a.m., so we would always wake ourselves up with a cup of cafécito and grab bait nearby before setting out for a day of fishing on the water. Sometimes, if the fish were bountiful, we would circle back on the same day to grab sides to serve with our fresh catch. 

Captain Craig’s Restaurant

Located right off the Overseas Highway, Captain Craig’s Restaurant is a great lunch spot and has a “world-famous fish sandwich,” a fried mahi-mahi creation served with tomatoes, American cheese, and tartar sauce. This restaurant will also cook your fresh catch—a great option if you're vacationing and don't have a full kitchen.

Old Tavernier Restaurant and Lodge

Located in the heart of the historic district, this old-school restaurant has kept locals well-fed on fresh seafood and Mediterranean dishes since 1988. Its most popular dish is the lobster thermidor—it truly looks tastes as good as it looks.

Lido 73

The best way to experience Lido 73 is to dock and dine. Pull your boat or kayak directly up to the property before enjoying fresh, Italian seafood-forward dishes.

Best Time to Visit

In my humble opinion, Florida has three distinct seasons: rainy, dry, and stone crab. The latter extends from Oct. 14 to May 1. Personally, I always make sure to plan my visits around the crustacean. However, the most popular time to visit is during the dry season, which runs from December to April—this is peak “snowbird” season, when visitors from northern locales come to find refuge in the warm Floridian weather. On the other hand, if you’re looking for a deal on tickets and lodgings, you may want to visit in the fall. The weather will be a bit hot and muggy, but the crowds will be smaller, and you may find it a more budget-friendly time to visit.

How to Get There

The closest airport is Miami International Airport (MIA), about 70 miles away. When you arrive, you should rent a car to drive down the famed Overseas Highway to get to the Keys. If you would prefer to avoid Miami traffic, I recommend flying into Fort Lauderdale–Hollywood International Airport (FLL) instead, which will only add 30 minutes to your drive. On the way, I recommend stopping by the fruit stand, Robert is Here in Florida City, Florida, for the best fruit smoothies in South Florida. 

Best Neighboring Islands and Towns To Visit

Tavernier sits directly between the most sought-after towns in the North Keys: Key Largo and Islamorada. They are easily accessible from town and both are worth a visit. 

Islamorada

There’s something for every type of traveler in Islamorada. You can kayak through mangrove forests, hand-feed tarpon, and check out a historic 1930s fishing boat. If half of your party is out on the water enjoying the fishing, you can explore the downtown arts district.

Key Largo

Most tourists flock to Key West and add an extra two hours to their drive, but there’s really no need when Key Largo is so close by. Key Largo is the largest of all the islands, meaning many locals live here—therefore, it has some of the best restaurants, shops, and attractions in the archipelago.

How to Get Around

There is only one road in and out of the Keys, the Overseas Highway, making it easy to get around (I learned to drive on this highway—if 15-year-old me can do it, so can you!). Ride-hailing services such as Uber are available in the area, but there are usually few drivers and service is limited. Once you’re settled in the Keys, the distance between towns and islands isn’t too far, so you can always bike on a back road and leisurely take in your surroundings while enjoying the ocean breeze.

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