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You have probably heard people talk about collagen, whether as an ingredient in their new moisturizer or as supplements they are taking. But what actually is it?
Collagen is known for its role in providing skin strength and elasticity, but the protein does so much more than just that. Other roles involve replacing dead skin cells, providing a protective covering for organs and helping blood to clot. Unsurprisingly, The Cleveland Clinic calls it a “primary building block” for the skin, muscles, bones, tendons and ligaments throughout the body.
Unfortunately, as you age, collagen breaks down faster and the body produces less. It is completely natural to see a decline in collagen, but before rushing to buy more supplements that promise to make skin firmer, Newsweek spoke to Dr. Jane Yoo about the everyday habits that could be breaking down your natural collagen.
The All-Important SPF
While you might try everything to enhance your skin’s look and texture, skipping the sun protection could just be undoing all of that. Yoo, a board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon practicing in New York, says that UV radiation is the “single most well-documented driver” of skin aging, directly impacting collagen loss.
Yoo said: “UV light generates free radicals that turn on matrix metalloproteinases, which are enzymes that destroy collagen. UV exposure also prevents cells known as fibroblasts that are responsible for synthesizing new collage.”
No serums, supplements or gummies can outdo the effects of unprotected sun exposure. SPF needs to become an obligatory step in your skincare routine.
Over-Exfoliating
Exfoliating is great for unclogging pores and removing dead skin cells, but it is important to know your skin’s limits. Yoo explains that skin has a natural cycle of 28 days, and exfoliating too frequently will strip the skin barrier faster than it is able to repair itself.
Remember, too much of a good thing.
“When patients use physical scrubs, high-concentration acids, or retinoids too much, they compromise the skin barrier, and this leads to inflammation. This chronic inflammation also leads to degradation of collagen through the matrix metalloproteinase pathway,” Yoo said.
“When the skin barrier is disrupted, the skin goes into an inflammatory state. This can appear as persistent dryness or flaking, redness, burning or stinging.”
Every individual is different, so there is no set rule but take cues on how your skin looks and feels to know if you are over-exfoliating. Most skin types can tolerate low-concentration acids multiple times a week, but Yoo warns against layering an exfoliant over a retinoid.
Lack of Sleep
It is no secret that the body needs rest for cognitive function, digestive and cell repair, but it turns out, sleep is also vital for collagen renewal. That is because the growth hormone secretion peaks during sleep, and this helps the body to produce fibroblasts, the cells which product collagen and elastin.
Consistently poor sleep impacts the skin’s ability to repair and rebuild, leading to dullness, fine lines, and slower recovery after any damage. Yoo tells Newsweek that poor sleep can also elevate the body’s cortisol levels, which in turn “inhibit collagen synthesis.”
Taking Hot Showers
You might be tempted to take a long, hot shower after a grueling day. What you might not realize is that those hot showers could in fact be aging your skin.
Hot water strips the skin of its natural lipid barrier, which Yoo explains leads to “increased transepidermal water loss.” When the skin is stripped of its natural oils, the skin barrier is weakened, which is significant because it helps regulate water loss, block irritants, toxins and pollutants.
If the skin barrier is compromised, this leaves collagen vulnerable too.
Yoo’s advice is to keep showers brief, preferably with lukewarm water, and then “make sure to apply a moisturizer while the skin is slightly damp.”
Not Drinking Enough
Dehydration commonly causes headaches, fatigue and thirst, but did you know it could also make your skin look worse too? Good hydration is necessary for collagen to maintain its structure and function throughout the body, but not drinking enough water, too much alcohol or caffeine can mean elasticity drops.
As a result, lines look deeper and skin less plump.
“When skin is dehydrated, the collagen fibers cannot operate properly and fine lines become apparent,” Yoo said. “With ongoing dehydration, the skin barrier function is impaired and the supportive matrix layer that holds the collagen shrinks.”
Is there a health issue that’s worrying you? Let us know via [email protected]. We can ask experts for advice, and your story could be featured on Newsweek.
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