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Regardless of your hair type (coily, thick and wavy, fine and short), mastering the art of the perfect air-dry is, in fact, an art. Sure, blow-dryers, straighteners, and curling irons can throw plenty of arm-breaking curveballs your way, but mastering the au naturel, "just stepped out of the shower" aesthetic is an intimidating beast in and of itself. With so many potential variables like climate, products, application timing, and hair texture, things can go awry quickly, and there definitely isn't a one-size-fits-all prescription.
Air-drying your hair with celeb-level finesse can be a total crapshoot, but we're here to change that. Enter a course in expert air-drying, courtesy of one of the best hairstylists in the industry, Cynthia Alvarez.
Working with clients with a wide variety of lengths and textures (her regulars include Shakira, Maye Musk, and Dascha Polanco), Alvarez knows a thing or two about styling every kind of strand situation—with or without tools. To stock up on all of her must-know intel, we asked her to provide a step-by-step breakdown of how best to air-dry an assortment of different hair types. But we didn't stop there. Alvarez is also sharing all of her must-have products, top tips, and, perhaps most importantly, the most common mistakes she wants each hair type to avoid.
So why not put your favorite hot tool into retirement and embrace your natural strands this winter? Keep scrolling!
How to Air Dry Coily Hair
Step One: Use a Co-Wash
For those with super-thick or coily hair texture, it's key to incorporate rich, natural oils like olive oil, avocado oil, and Jamaican black castor oil to seal in moisture and lots of shine. And since coily hair can take a long time to air-dry, Alvarez says the most common mistake people make is taking down their hair before it's dry, which can cause frizz and an uneven curl pattern. "Moisture is crucial for coily hair, so I always suggest using a co-wash," directs Alvarez.
Step Two: Apply a Leave-In, Hair Oil, and Styling Cream
You can always add on extra products if you'd like but styling coils, at the very least, requires the trifecta of leave-in, hair oil, and styling cream. "Apply a leave-in such as Camille Rose Naturals Curl Love Moisture Milk ($13), and mix it with a hair oil like Living Proof's No Frizz Vanishing Oil ($36)," Alvarez says, making a note that you should be sure to disperse it through damp hair thoroughly. It's also helpful to invest in a water bottle to re-wet your hair in between styling as needed to ensure the product fully soaks in.
If you prefer to skip hair oil you can also swap your styling order so that styling cream is your second step followed by a strong-hold gel. Alvarez likes Aunt Jackie’s Flaxseed Don’t Shrink Elongating Curling Gel ($7), which she says will also help stretch and define curls and coils.
Step Three: Choose Your Style & Add Shine
There are a few ways to style your hair with coils, but it mainly comes down to personal preference. "You can choose to let your coils dry naturally with no protective style, or you can double strangle twist or finger coil your hair to achieve a more defined, curly look," says Alvarez. "Once the hair has completely dried, I like to use SheaMoisture's Coconut & Hibiscus Hold & Shine Moisture Mist ($16)." A mist or oil will break the cast from the gel, creating a softer feel while adding shine.
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How to Air Dry Fine or Straight Hair
Step One: Use a Volumizing Shampoo & Conditioner
"Adding volume right away is essential when air-drying straight hair or fine hair," says Alvarez. "In the shower, use volumizing products like Bumble and Bumble's Thickening Volume Shampoo ($38) and Conditioner ($30)." This will create a fuller look without weighing your hair down. Before applying any styling products, be sure to blot your hair well with a towel to allow products to fully saturate the hair, which Alvarez says will make them more effective.
Step Two: Add Mousse & Smoothing Cream
If you have straight hair that's not overly fine, not applying enough product for fear that their hair will be weighed down can cause issues if you're air-drying. Instead, Alvarez says the real key is finding the right products to achieve maximum volume and movement. For fine hair, however, Alvarez says you should lessen the amount of product recommended on the packaging. If your hair is a bit thicker, feel free to use a tad more. Either way, she says to make sure to rake the product through thoroughly and evenly.
Another common mistake? Touching their hair too much. "Most people with straight hair tend to touch their hair while it's air-drying, which will cause it to frizz," warns Alvarez. "Once you've applied your styling products, comb through your strands just one time so your hair can begin setting in that form."
To add natural volume to straight or fine hair, she recommends using a lightweight, bodybuilding mousse like R+Co's Rodeo Star Thickening Style Foam ($38) to roots for some extra lift followed by Oribe's Imperial Blowout Heat Protectant Styling Hair Cream ($69) to iron down the cuticle, boost shine, and prevent flyaways.
Step Three: Spray Volume Powder for a Midday Lift
If you need a midday pick-me-up, Alvarez recommends using a lightweight spray like this No Limit Dry Volume and Thickening Spray ($34) from IGK to your roots, all the way through your ends. "It provides long-lasting volume and disappears into your hair and scalp with no residue," she says.
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How to Air Dry Medium or Wavy Hair
Step One: Choose a Hydrating Shampoo & Conditioner
"Hydration is essential when air-drying wavy or medium-thickness hair," Alvarez tells us. "Start by using a hydrating shampoo and conditioner. Then, dry hair using a microfiber towel or a T-shirt to prevent frizz." She's a big fan of Briogeo's Don’t Despair, Repair!™ Super Moisture Shampoo($39) and conditioner, which caters especially well to those with damaged hair.
Step Two: Apply Dry Oil & Moisturizing Leave-In
Start with a dry oil, focusing on the ends of your hair first. Then, follow up with your prefered leave-in. "Comb the product through the hair using a wide-tooth comb for even distribution," says Alvarez. "I love the Kristin Ess Air Dry Cream ($12) formula because it helps to smooth down the hair cuticle while calming frizz and adding shine." If your hair is thicker and wavy, she suggest using a heavier cream like Moroccanoil's Curl Defining Cream ($36).
Step Three: Depending on Your Climate, Add Hair Gel
"If you're in a humid climate, you may need to incorporate a light-hold gel like Ouidad's Advanced Climate Control Heat & Humidity Gel ($13)," says Alvarez. "This gel helps defines your natural texture or waves without the added stiffness and blocking out the effects of humidity." And if you're worried about not getting enough definition, she suggests loosely braiding your hair while it's damp or pulling it up into a loose bun.
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How to Air Dry Thick or Curly Hair
Step One: Use a Sulfate-Free Shampoo and Conditioner
While going sulfate-free isn't a requirement it definitely doesn't hurt to invest in formulas that don't strip your hair. "Start by using a shampoo and conditioner like Briogeo's Banana and Coconut formula," instructs Alvarez. If your hair is on the thicker side, try a more quenching formula like Pattern's Medium Conditioner ($29) and Hydration Shampoo ($22).
After you get out of the shower, dry your hair off a touch using a microfiber towel or by wrapping your hair in a T-shirt. (If you don't have any of these handy, Alvarez says you can simply blot dry with a terry cloth towel, making sure not to rub your strands with too rough of a hand.)
Step Two: Layer a Leave-In & Curl Enhancer
"For curly hair, you should always layer your products," Alvarez continues. First, she recommends applying a leave-in formula like Curls Blueberry Bliss Leave-In Conditioner ($10) from midshaft to ends, eventually working your way to the roots. Then, rake Aveda's Be Curly Curl Enhancer ($36) from midshaft to ends as well using your fingers.
According to Alvarez, there are a few. "Using products that are too dense and thick tends to flatten curly hair, and brushing curls in a downward motion will stack your curls on top of one another, which allows no room for volume."
Step Three: Brush Your Hair at a 90-Degree Angle
"Style the curls using a Denman brush working in vertical sections and brushing the hair at a 90-degree angle off the scalp. This allows your curls to dry fluffy and airy with a lot of movement," Alvarez confirms. Then, using a wide-tooth comb once your curls are completely dry, fluff the roots without touching the rest of the hair. Alvarez says this technique results in maximum lift and movement.
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This story was published at an earlier date and has since been updated.
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