SerpApi.Org
A family-owned restaurant is still serving this famous kebab today.
Key Points
While filming an episode of No Reservations in Istanbul, Anthony Bourdain tasted a long list of local dishes but declared one item to be the “winner of the day.”
Bourdain loved Dürümzade’s house special Adana dürüm so much that he noted he wanted to order a second kebab, even though he’d been eating all afternoon.
Originally from the city of Adana, this kebab features ground lamb that’s seasoned with salt and pul biber, then grilled over charcoal until crispy on the outside.
Anthony Bourdain turned a curiosity for food — and a knack for finding the best hole-in-the-wall eateries around the world — into a storied career. Today, the late culinary icon’s work still inspires food lovers’ travel itineraries, encouraging them to try dishes they haven’t had before and to seek out Bourdain’s favorite places abroad.
Out of the many bites he sampled while filming his Travel Channel series No Reservations, Bourdain had a few favorites. He declared a simple plate of cacio e pepe in Rome to be “the greatest thing in the history of the world” and loved a Brazilian sandwich so much that he published a recipe for it in one of his cookbooks. In Turkey, one dish made such an impression on Bourdain that he wanted to order a second serving.
In a Season 6 episode of No Reservations, Bourdain took a culinary tour of Istanbul, sampling a variety of specialties from the city’s vibrant food scene, including lahmacun, ayran (a yogurt drink), Ottoman stews, and the city’s beloved wet burger, known as ıslak hamburger. But one bite stood out above the rest, prompting the famous chef to call it “extraordinary” and “absolutely delicious.” If you’re planning a trip to Istanbul, you can’t miss the Adana kebabs that left a lasting impression on Bourdain.
Anthony Bourdain’s favorite kebab in Istanbul comes from a casual, streetside spot
In season 6, episode 2 of No Reservations, while documenting a busy day of feasting across Istanbul, Bourdain found his favorite kebabs at a quaint, street-side restaurant called Dürümzade. Located in Istanbul’s historic Beyoğlu neighborhood, the shop, as the name suggests, specializes in dürüm, Turkish kebab wraps filled with charcoal-grilled meat and fresh toppings.
The Kitchen Confidential author enjoyed a spread of freshly grilled kebabs at the family-owned joint and even ordered a couple of off-menu items, such as lamb’s head. But he saved the best dish for last; Dürümzade’s house special Adana dürüm caught the chef by surprise, with Bourdain naming it the “winner of the day.”
Related: 10 Street Food Specialties to Try in Istanbul
The restaurant’s Adana kebabs feature spicy ground lamb grilled on metal skewers over charcoal, then tightly wrapped in lavaş (a paper-thin flatbread, also known as lavash) and topped with sumac-coated onions, parsley, and tomatoes. As Bourdain explains in the episode, Dürümzade sets its kebabs apart by slathering the fresh flatbread with red chili oil and intermittently using the lavaş to soak up the meat’s rendered fat and juices as it cooks.
The result, Bourdain notes, is a “sort of meaty, fatty, spicy blanket” and a dürüm so delicious that after his first bite, the television personality said, “Oh my god, that’s good.” He admitted that Dürümzade’s house kebab was “so delicious that even after this festival of meat, I wanted another one.”
What makes Turkish Adana kebab special?
While Dürümzade makes an excellent version of it, this dish isn’t specific to the restaurant. The kebab gets its name from its place of origin: the city of Adana. As Turkey’s fifth-largest city, Adana is known for a wide range of regional dishes, such as fellah köftesi (a bulgur dumpling) and sıkma (a thin, rolled flatbread). However, Adana kebab might be the city’s most iconic dish.
There are dozens of styles of kebabs in Turkey, each featuring different cuts of meat, spice blends, toppings, and more. Adana kebabs are made with a blend of lamb meat and tail fat, which are traditionally hand-minced with a zırh knife and kneaded until the ground meat develops a moist, paste-like consistency. The lamb is simply seasoned with salt and pul biber (red pepper flakes), shaped into long strips around metal skewers, and grilled over charcoal. A perfectly cooked Adana kebab should be charred and crispy on the outside but juicy on the inside.
Related: Chefs Call the New Anthony Bourdain Film Raw, Relatable, and Touching
In 2005, Adana kebabs were granted a controlled designation of origin, specifying that an authentic or “official” version of the dish must be made in Adana using precise preparation methods, such as the use of a zirh. However, expertly crafted versions are enjoyed throughout Turkey every day. In Istanbul, Adana kebabs — often served as a dürüm, wrapped in fresh lavaş — are a staple street food and late-night bite. They can also be enjoyed as a plated entrée, with the meat served over the flatbread alongside rice, salad, and grilled tomatoes.
The restaurant serving Bourdain’s favorite kebabs in Istanbul is still open today, and the small, street-side Dürümzade sits on the same bustling corner where the late chef once sat down for a meal. The biggest difference? Its walls are now covered with pictures of Bourdain taking a bite of the unforgettable kebabs.
Read the original article on Food & Wine
