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48 hours at the San Francisco Presidio: America’s most unusual national treasure

48 Hours at the San Francisco Presidio: America’s Most Unusual National Treasure
48 Hours at the San Francisco Presidio:  America’s Most Unusual National Treasure

By Kathy Chin Leong Most of us would not consider a decommissioned Army post a vacation destination. And yet, each year ten million tourists from all over the world do. Welcome to The Presidio, a national park in the middle of San Francisco’s urban jungle. Preservationists saw value in this 1,491-acre military base where troops […]

By Kathy Chin Leong

48 Hours at the San Francisco Presidio: America’s Most Unusual National Treasure
Outpost Meadow at Presidio Tunnel courtesy of Presidio

Outpost Meadow at Presidio Tunnel courtesy of Presidio

Most of us would not consider a decommissioned Army post a vacation destination.  And yet, each year ten million tourists from all over the world do.  Welcome to The Presidio, a national park in the middle of San Francisco’s urban jungle.  Preservationists saw value in this 1,491-acre military base where troops once fired cannons and blew bugles for reveille.

Since 1994, when it came under the authority of the Presidio Trust and National Park Service, the Presidio’s unique natural features, amenities, and services make it unlike any other national park. Spacious grounds with unmatched views of the Golden Gate Bridge feature miles of trails that wind around eucalyptus trees and restored 19th-century structures.  This is your  “Presidio 101” guide that breaks down the essentials.

48 Hours at the San Francisco Presidio: America’s Most Unusual National Treasure

Is there  R&R?

You bet! The Lodge at the Presidio and Inn at the Presidio provide elegant guestrooms with mid-century modern furnishings.  Guests are treated to hearty continental breakfasts daily. And at 5 p.m., a bountiful wine and cheese hour awaits.

The four-star boutique hotels are LEED Gold certified and continue to maintain eco-friendly practices. These former brick-clad Army quarters are not only gorgeous architecturally, but energy-efficient and excellent examples of adaptive reuse of buildings from the late 1800s and early 1900s. Interior designers have tastefully incorporated bugles, toy cannons, antique cameras, and early snapshots of soldiers and staff. The palette of midnight blue, soft gray, and taupe takes common military hues up to the next level.

48 Hours at the San Francisco Presidio: America’s Most Unusual National Treasure

The Lodge’s open lobby with attractive seating areas was once a rec room for shooting pool and playing cards. The 42 guestrooms come with high ceilings, navy carpeting, and white bedding. While individual luxury rooms are upstairs today, the second level used to be one big dorm for Army privates who slept and lived together.

 
48 Hours at the San Francisco Presidio: America’s Most Unusual National Treasure

Meanwhile, the Inn at the Presidio features a smaller entry with notable historic décor.  In the dining room is a portrait of Colonel Charles Young, one of the first black graduates of West Point who served as a commander at the Presidio.

The Inn may have less square footage than its sister property, but is no less stunning with 22 rooms and suites. On a foggy San Francisco morning, warm yourself in front of the fire pit with coffee in hand. Admire the waterscape in a rocking chair on the porch.

Desperate for me-time?  Book a treatment at SenSpa, a 13,000-square-foot full-service pamper palace with Asian-inspired interiors and wellness services.  It is also a repurposed medical warehouse with couples suites, VIP rooms, and a café.

48 Hours at the San Francisco Presidio: America’s Most Unusual National Treasure
Battery Bluff – photo courtesy of the Presidio

Battery Bluff – photo courtesy of the Presidio

Crave outdoor action?

Twelve hiking trails with various difficulty levels point to the Emerald Bay. Two golf courses cater to enthusiasts while bike routes lead guests past restored military homes and outdoor art. A free shuttle bus can take you around the park; check times for pickups.

The Presidio is also packed with biodiversity, so bring your binoculars. It is home to more than 300 bird species, 300-plus plant types, and over ten rare and endangered species of plants and trees. Don’t be surprised if you see a coyote or two crossing the street.

Kids and pets will thrive.  Beaches, play structures, and the Main Parade Lawn offer space to hurl a Frisbee.   The new Tunnel Tops park spans two highway tunnels with flower-laden walking paths and picnic tables fronting picturesque waves.

Meanwhile, the Presidio Visitor Center offers a 3D model of the park that lights up specific landmarks. At the Presidio Field Station, where explorers of all ages can examine nature up close, adults and children can pick up their own complimentary Presidio Adventure Passport kit. The colorful booklet includes pages for taking field notes or collecting stickers. The kit includes a scavenger hunt card deck to track down items at the park.

Park rangers can answer questions about park critters and where to snag a snack.   Topical lectures occur throughout the day.  Around 3 p.m., huddle around the fire pit for a campfire talk.

48 Hours at the San Francisco Presidio: America’s Most Unusual National Treasure

Relish indoor fun?

The troops bowled during off hours, and you can, too.  At the Presidio Bowl, evenings are packed, so reserve a lane during the mid-afternoon. You can also order grub while kids play arcade games.

Take note that nearby Movement San Francisco provides indoor rock climbing and yoga. Also on the premises is the YMCA, which gives free access to Presidio hotel guests. It provides an indoor pool, a rare treat in  San Francisco.

Love live entertainment?

The Presidio Theatre used to project movies for soldiers, but now it presents dance, music and cultural programs to the public in its transformed 612-seat performing arts venue. Recent events have included Na Lei Hulu I ka Wekiu hula show, and Tony n’ Tina’s Wedding, an interactive comedy where the audience becomes the wedding guests.

The Presidio Chapel, built in 1932 by the U.S. Army, features classical, vocal, and organ recitals throughout the year. With room for 175 ticket holders, the chapel has hosted local and national talent.

48 Hours at the San Francisco Presidio: America’s Most Unusual National Treasure

Can’t get enough history?

Together with descriptive markers and photos, repurposed architecture, plus ancient forests, the acreage is an entire living history museum. Explore the Presidio Officers’ Club with exhibits about the Ohlone and military life.  Another building houses the Military Intelligence Service Historic Learning Center which tells the story of Japanese-American soldiers serving the U.S. in secret during WWII.  Not far is the Buffalo Soldier Museum and Library showcasing contributions of African American soldiers, residents of the Presidio.

The Presidio also features a national cemetery, established in 1854, for some 30,000 soldiers laid to rest. In another part of the park is the  pet cemetery. Exactly 424 headstones pay tribute to the beloved Presidio family animals buried from the late 1950s to 1994.

48 Hours at the San Francisco Presidio: America’s Most Unusual National Treasure

A Disney or Star Wars fan? 

While at the park, book tickets for the Disney Family Museum, also former barracks.  You’ll get to know the Disney clan and what events led up to the making of Disneyland. Interact with imaginative displays and see Academy Award Oscars behind glass.

Meanwhile, sci-fi fans can pay homage to the bronze Yoda fountain in front of the Lucasfilm production studio. It is perfectly okay to venture into the lobby to pose with the life-sized R2-D2 robot and Stormtrooper models.

48 Hours at the San Francisco Presidio: America’s Most Unusual National Treasure

While on the Lucasfilm campus, shop for a souvenir at the new Skywalker Ranch General Store. It sells exclusive stuff like Skywalker Ranch wine since George Lucas owns a vineyard or two. Find Star Wars clothing and memorabilia. Darth Vader waffle iron, anyone?

48 Hours at the San Francisco Presidio: America’s Most Unusual National Treasure

Yearn a gourmet adventure?

Over ten food and beverage options, including food trucks and coffee joints, ensure no one goes hungry.  Lock in a reservation at Dalida, a Mediterranean restaurant opened in 2023. On a Wednesday night, the eatery is packed.  Owner/chef Sayat Ozyilmax and wife Laura have crafted an approachable yet novel menu based on food memories from Saya’s home in Istanbul.  Soon after we arrive, the octopus and sujuk entrée sails out with visual delight. Poached octopus, arrayed in circles, is shaved salami thin with a delicate, not chewy bite.

Another must-order is the Breaking of the Bread.  The carb is soft and pillowy, ringed by marinated olives, pickles, and little dips made in-house. With farm-to-table values, the chefs use produce from their restaurant’s urban garden.

This is an open-concept dining room with high ceilings.  Wood tables seat two to four comfortably. Noise level is medium.

48 Hours at the San Francisco Presidio: America’s Most Unusual National Treasure

At the opposite end of the park is Piccino Presidio, which launched to rave reviews in 2025.  The culinary team already had secured a fan base at the original Piccino in another neighborhood in 2006.  Opening a second and larger Piccino was a no-brainer.

Choose among several dining rooms and an outdoor patio. Judging from its mid-week, jam-packed attendance, the haunt is a Presidio favorite, boisterous and vibrant. The back room is ideal when you want normal-volume conversation. Thin-crust pizzas, pastas, gnocchi, and seasonal salads are on point. However, pizzas are a true standout, for the crust bubbles and blisters in all the right places.  “The Fungi” with roasted mushrooms, shaved garlic, and parsley was so aromatic, heads were turning our way.

48 Hours at the San Francisco Presidio: America’s Most Unusual National Treasure
Presidio Tunnel Tops photo courtesy of Presidio

Presidio Tunnel Tops photo courtesy of Presidio

What can you do at the Presidio?

At first glance, the quiet, understated park teeming with forests and lawns seems a bit too quiet.  However, you’ll be amazed that two days just scratches the surface.  Nature bathe among cypress and redwoods. Take in a world-class concert.  Try a shiatsu massage. Picnic over a freeway. Sleep in upscale military barracks. Go with the kids on a Presidio scavenger hunt.  No doubt, you will experience the most diverse range of activities any national park has to offer. Plus, this is the only place where you can taste Army life, but don’t have to sign up for boot camp.

  • For more information, visit: presidio.gov
 
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48 Hours at the San Francisco Presidio: America’s Most Unusual National Treasure
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