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As the morning light warms the sky into a soft pink, a group of brown pelicans swoops across the cresting wave of the Atlantic. On the shoreline, we pass horseshoe crabs washed up by the tide overnight, while up in the sand dunes signs of turtles’ nests are just visible. At this moment in the gentle light of dawn, it could be prehistoric times on Hilton Head Island; this patch of South Carolina feels almost untouched by the last 10,000 years.
In an hour or so the island will start to wake up – golfers will tee off at the world-famous courses, locals will pick up their morning coffee from the little bakeries, the marina will start to fill with shoppers, and beach-goers will lay out their towels and take a morning dip in the ocean. But as the sun rises, all is quiet on this patch of Atlantic coast, save for the soft lap of the waves against the sand.
Perhaps best known for its golf courses and elegant beachfront homes, Hilton Head is a barrier island around 12 miles long and just under five miles wide. Like other beach towns on this stretch of Atlantic coastline – travel up the coast and you’ll find yourself in North Carolina’s Outer Banks before eventually hitting New York’s Long Island – it’s a popular spot for vacationing Americans. Yet the vibe is more laidback than the hectic Hamptons, and the international crowd hasn’t yet caught on. You might not find bars open late into the night, shared houses packed with partying New Yorkers, and restaurants with lines snaking out the door. You will, however, be treated to abundant birdlife, a rich history and sweeping golden beaches where you won’t have to fight for a spot of sand. And despite its reputation for being a haven for the well-heeled, there’s plenty to do if you’re not travelling on a high-end budget.
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What to do
Learn about Gullah culture
It is impossible to understand Hilton Head without learning the history of the Gullah Geechee people that have lived on this land since long before the first beach houses sprung up. Descendants of enslaved people who were forcibly brought to South Carolina from Central and West Africa in the 18th and 19th centuries to work on the cotton and rice plantations, the Gullah Geechee community has retained a distinct culture, traditions and language that has largely been passed down through word of mouth. Visitors to the island can join one of the Gullah Heritage Trail Tours ($42 for adults and $20 for children), which takes them to some of the most important sites on the island, including the the Old Debarkation Point (once the island’s main connection to the mainland), the Old One-room School House, and the First Freedom Village Historic Marker. It’s also worth stopping in at Binya in the Spanish Wells neighbourhood, an artisan store that aims to educate about Gullah culture, and sells beautiful Lowcountry artisan gifts and accessories.
Visit Mitchelville Freedom Park
On the land where the first self-governed town in the United States of formerly enslaved people was established stands Mitchelville Historic Freedom Park. The town of Mitchelville was founded in 1862 during the American Civil War when newly liberated African American men and women arrived in Hilton Head from the mainland and surrounding islands to seek refuge. At Mitchelville they built homes, planted crops, formed churches, founded schools and elected their own leaders. Visitors to the Historic Freedom park will find “ghosted” structures where homes once stood and information about how these people lived, worked, worshipped and raised families. It’s a peaceful spot in shaded woodland with a boardwalk leading out to the marsh, and a hugely significant historical monument for both South Carolina and the whole of the United States.
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Enjoy some beach time
It’s not hard to see why so many visitors are drawn to Hilton Head for its beaches. Stretching for some 12 miles around the island with calm waters, there is plenty of space to lay out a towel for a beach day. Some of the most popular beaches include Alder Lane Beach, Folly Field Beach Park and Burkes Beach, all of which have parking and beach mats for improved accessibility.
Get on your bike
The best way to explore Hilton Head is on two wheels – and you’ll notice plenty of locals and holidaymakers using bikes as their main form of transport. Because the island is so compact, you can quite easily get wherever you need on a bike, and Hilton Head is well set up for cyclists with miles of trails and bike lanes, as well as bike racks outside cafes, bars and restaurants. Some of the most popular routes for visitors include Sea Pines Leisure Trails, Fish Haul Creek Park and Barker Field Pathways
Explore the marina
Hilton Head Harbour Town is a pretty marina where you’ll find plenty of shops and restaurants, as well as a children’s playground and a wooden pier from where you can watch the sunset and sometimes spot dolphins. Start by climbing the 114 stairs of the classic red-and-white-striped lighthouse for a panoramic view of the island, before browsing the many boutique stores and then grabbing a coffee to watch island life go by.
Where to stay
Rent a house
One of the most popular ways to holiday on Hilton Head Island is in a rented house and you’ll see some beautiful properties along the shore and inland that can be booked for a short stay or even the whole summer. At the highest end are properties right on the beach like the rather stunning 23 South Beach Lagoon – a six-bedroom house with its own pool and hot tub – but there are a number of more affordable options, too, including condos that are just a short walk to the beach. Alongside Vrbo and Airbnb, it’s also worth checking out Island Getaway Rentals and Island Rentals of Hilton Head.
Check into a hotel
There are plenty of resorts across Hilton Head with direct beach access, including Sonesta, which is a popular choice for families, with two swimming pools, a spa and a kids summer camp. Situated within the Sea Pines Resort, The Inn & Club at Harbour Town has a country club vibe, and is a particular favourite among golfers thanks to its three world-class courses and range of dining options. Other options include the Ocean Oak Resort (which is a Hilton property), and Palmetto Dunes Oceanfront Resort, while there is also a Marriott, Omni, Westin and Hampton Inn on the island.
Where to eat and drink
Dinner with Sallie-Ann Robinson
The best dining experience on Hilton Head has to be with Sallie-Ann Robinson. The chef from Daufuskie Island will come to your home for a private dining experience and regale diners with tales from her childhood while cooking quite possibly the best lowcountry meal you’ll ever eat – we’re talking Sea Island crab and shrimp pasta salad, Carolina dry lima beans with smoked turkey wings, and deep sea baked catfish, finished off with Gullah old fashion bread pudding. You can also visit Sallie-Ann on Daufuskie Island where she hosts cooking demonstrations and shares her vast knowledge of Gullah cuisine, culture and food traditions.
Hudson’s Seafood on the Docks
Seafood doesn’t get fresher than at Hudson's. From the deck here you can watch the fishing boats bring in their haul just hours before it ends up on your plate. It’s a lively relaxed atmosphere with a good mix of locals and visitors, serving up oysters, shrimp and soft shell crabs, along with the catch of the day, including grouper, flounder and Atlantic salmon.
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Fishcamp
A lively yet laidback spot on Broad Creek, Fishcamp is another restaurant known for great seafood, as well as Southern classics like fried green tomatoes, hush puppies and key lime pie. It’s also the ideal place to sit at the bar and enjoy a beer, with live music from Thursday to Sunday.
The Quarterdeck
For a swanky dining experience at the harbour, book a table at The Quarterdeck. Start with cocktails at the bar, before choosing from dishes including a seared salmon burger, roasted chicken gumbo, a blackened jumbo shrimp wrap and Daufuskie deviled crab cakes. Try to time your meal with golden hour, as the sunset over the marina is spectacular.
Nectar Farm Kitchen
A great spot for breakfast or lunch, Nectar Farm Kitchen offers up a variety of classic American dishes with a Southern twist, including omelettes, pancakes, waffles, grits and lunch plates. It’s a relaxed dining spot and portions are generous – perfect for setting you up for a day exploring the island.
Hilton Head Social Bakery
The pastries at Hilton Head Social Bakery are divine – soft, flaky and perfectly baked. Choose from croissants, buns, scones and muffins for breakfast, while the lunch menu features baguettes, sandwiches and quiches. The coffee is pretty great, too.
Annabel’s trip was supported by Visit Hilton Head.
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