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I tested 7 Wi-Fi tweaks that cost nothing—and they beat a $300 router upgrade

Don't toss your old router: 5 practical ways to reuse it
I tested 7 Wi-Fi tweaks that cost nothing—and they beat a $300 router upgrade

These 7 Wi-Fi tweaks cost nothing and work better than buying a new router

I'm not a fan of renting your router from your ISP, but I'm also not a fan of advising people to waste their money. If you already have your own router and you're unhappy with your Wi-Fi, you might be tempted to buy one of these useless networking upgrades, but I'm here to say: wait a bit. You may be able to fix the problem without spending a penny instead.

Move your router before replacing it

Dead zones are real, folks

A basic ISP-issued router.
A basic ISP-issued router.

Wi-Fi dead zones are a massive nuisance, but fortunately, they're easily fixed ... for the most part.

Even the best router in the world will struggle if you cram it inside a cabinet or stick it somewhere far away from where you actually need to use the internet. Walls, floors, large appliances, metal furniture, and even mirrors can weaken or redirect the signal. Heck, even baby monitors can ruin your Wi-Fi signal.

Before changing any settings, move the router into the open, raise it off the floor, and place it closer to the center of the area where you need to improve your signal. You can use a Wi-Fi analyzer app to see where the dead zones hide.

Stop your own Wi-Fi equipment from fighting itself

One extra access point can make the network worse

The Unifi Flex Mini 2.5G Ethernet switch with cables plugged in sitting on a server.
Patrick Campanale / How-To Geek

Adding more Wi-Fi equipment sounds like an obvious way to improve coverage, but it can backfire. An old range extender with a weak connection to the router may show plenty of signal bars while still delivering miserable performance. You may also have an ISP gateway broadcasting its own network beside a separate router or mesh system, leaving several access points competing for the same limited airtime.

Temporarily unplug every extender, repeater, and optional access point, then test the main router by itself. If you use your own router behind an ISP gateway, open the gateway's settings and disable its Wi-Fi radios, provided you don't need them for something else. Reconnect your extra equipment one device at a time and test after each one.

Install the firmware update you may have ignored

If your router is EOL, then it's time to say goodbye

I'm preaching to the choir here, I know. Router firmware updates are important, but we've all ignored them at times. Let's fix that.

Open your router's mobile app or admin page and look for a section labeled Firmware, System, Maintenance, or Update. Get it rolling, and don't unplug the router while it updates. While you're there, check if your router is still supported; if not, it is time to say goodbye, unfortunately.

Put each device on the right Wi-Fi band

Range and speed don't come from the same frequency

MicroSD card slot on the TP-Link AX3000 travel router.
Bertel King / How-To Geek

The 2.4GHz, 5GHz, and 6GHz bands each have different strengths. The 2.4GHz band reaches farther and handles walls better, but it's slow and crowded. The 5GHz band is faster at short distances. Meanwhile, the 6GHz band provides even cleaner spectrum for compatible devices but generally has the shortest useful range. Forcing onto whichever band has the highest number of GHz isn't going to help.

Keep your PCs, consoles, streaming boxes, and phones on 5GHz or 6GHz. Smart home devices and less important stuff can live happily on 2.4GHz.

Stop trusting a bad automatic channel

Auto channel selection is useful (until it isn't)

An ASUS Wi-Fi 6E router placed on a box.
Goran Damnjanovic / How-To Geek

Your Wi-Fi network shares wireless spectrum with every nearby router, so a channel that worked well when you first set everything up may become crowded later. Automatic channel selection is pretty sensible by default, but some routers can only scan for a channel when they reboot, so you may end up using a crowded channel over time.

Start with the channel scanner in your router's app, if there is one. On the 2.4GHz band in the U.S., the best channels to pick are 1, 6, and 11, as they don't overlap one another at 20MHz. Pick the least congested of those three. On 5GHz, try the router's recommended channel first, then keep testing if that doesn't help.

Replace old security modes that drag down performance

WPA and TKIP need to get the boot

A Vodafone Ultra Hub 7 router on a desk in front of a computer.
Adam Davidson / How-To Geek

Wireless security settings aren't just about stranger danger. Old modes such as WEP, WPA, and TKIP can also limit compatibility and performance.

A router may keep these options enabled to support old devices, but that can force the rest of your network to slow down to match their pace.

To fix this, open the wireless security section of your router and use WPA3 personal if all your important devices let you do that. WPA/WPA3 transitional mode is the practical choice when you still have some older hardware, while WPA2 Personal with AES is the fallback if your router doesn't have WPA3.

Use QoS only where congestion is actually brutal

Give calls and games the priority they deserve

Rear ports on the TP-Link AX3000 travel router.
Bertel King / How-To Geek

Sometimes your signal may be fine, but the connection falls apart when you put it through its paces. I mean stuff like downloading a game or uploading files. That's usually down to congestion rather than coverage.

Quality of Service, which may also be called traffic prioritization, Dynamic QoS, or Smart Queue Management, lets the router favor latency-sensitive traffic instead of allowing one large transfer to overwhelm the connection.

Open the router's QoS settings and prioritize activities such as video calls, voice chat, and gaming, or just prioritize the PC that needs this the most.

Test your router before getting rid of it

Network troubleshooting is so annoying specifically because a million different things can be the problem. Before you get rid of your router, play around with its settings, switch to Ethernet to see if that helps, map your Wi-Fi dead zones, and test it with different devices.

Read full story on HowToGeek

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