Health

How to work out your skin type in midlife

The Telegraph · Jul 22, 2026 12:09 · 5 min read

A new frown line. A fresh smattering of sun spots. Everyone knows skin changes with age. But were you also aware that your skin type can switch over time? Dry, oily, combination and even “normal” skin are terms that get thrown around a lot. As a general rule, Dr Alexis Granite, a dermatologist, says: “Your skin type is determined by how much oil yo...

As a general rule, Dr Alexis Granite, a dermatologist, says: “Your skin type is determined by how much oil your skin produces, how it holds on to water, and how reactive it is to external triggers.”

And while it’s true that skin type is genetic, it’s not fixed. “Your skin type is affected by hormones, barrier integrity and environment, all of which can change over a lifetime,” Dr Granite adds.

Skin can be spotty in your teens, sensitive in your 30s and papery in your 40s. But use the wrong products for your skin type and you could be worsening the concerns you’re trying to treat.

Here are the signs to look out for and a routine to help you get your glow back.

Dry skin

How does your skin feel today? Rough? Is it tight after cleansing? Does your moisturiser no longer feel moisturising? “These are all common signs that you have dry skin,” says Dr Justine Kluk, a consultant dermatologist.

If you’re perimenopausal, these changes aren’t accidental. “Skin often becomes drier, thinner and more sensitive in our 40s and beyond,” says Dr Kluk. “As oestrogen levels fall, the skin produces less sebum and becomes less able to retain water, so moisture escapes more easily.” It also comes down to losing collagen more quickly, slower exfoliation and a reduction in moisture-locking lipids.

It’s tempting to throw endless oils and heavy creams at the problem. But, according to Dr Kluk, “turning to ingredients that support the skin barrier, such as ceramides, glycerin and hyaluronic acid,” can reap better rewards.

Beauty editors favourite Sunday Riley Tidal Deep Hydration + Plumping Serum (£70, Space NK) has five different types of hyaluronic acid, a molecule that draws water into the skin. Top with the deeply nourishing Skin Rocks The Rich Moisturiser (£69, SpaceNK).

How to work out your skin type in midlife

Sunday Riley Tidal Deep Hydration + Plumping Serum, £70, Space NK

As for the dead skin cells that have piled up, Katharine Mackenzie Paterson, a celebrity facialist, recommends “using an exfoliator containing PHA (poly-hydroxy-acid) or lactic acid, as both pull moisture into the skin”. Try Trinny London Tiptoe In PHA Exfoliant (£36, John Lewis) an entry-level, leave-on liquid exfoliator. Elsewhere, “avoid harsh foaming cleansers and alcohol-based toners,” advises Dr Kluk.

Sensitive skin

If angry red patches have suddenly blossomed across your cheeks and nose, and products you have used for years now sting, you could be suffering from sensitive skin. This same decline in oestrogen levels and skin-plumping collagen is the main culprit. “A thinner, drier barrier allows irritants and allergens to penetrate more easily, so skin that tolerated actives and fragrance for years can suddenly react to them,” says Dr Granite.

For this reason, she recommends paring back your routine to just the basics. “Invest in a gentle cream cleanser, a niacinamide serum to calm inflammation and a moisturiser containing ceramides, as these directly replace the lipids the barrier is losing,” she says.

La Roche-Posay Toleriane Dermo-Cleanser (£16.50, LookFantastic) contains eight ingredients, including soothing thermal spring water, to limit flare-ups. The Inky List Niacinamide Serum (£10, SpaceNK) is excellent at hydrating and dialling down redness.

La Roche-Posay Toleriane Dermo-Cleanser, £16.50, LookFantastic

Introducing new products can be a gamble, so gradually phase in a low-strength retinaldehyde serum, a less irritating form of vitamin A. “You still want cell turnover support, just in a milder formulation than retinol,” Dr Granite says. Even my sensitive skin can tolerate Medik8 Crystal Retinal 1 (£45, SpaceNK).

Oily skin

Perimenopausal hormones can also skew the other way. Rather than parched skin, you can unexpectedly be faced with a shiny T-zone, breakouts along the jawline and enlarged pores on the nose and cheeks. Typically, sebaceous glands produce oil to prevent skin dryness, but hormonal changes can tip the balance. “As oestrogen declines, androgens exert more influence on the sebaceous glands, which can increase sebum production,” explains Dr Brendan Khong, an aesthetic doctor.

Oily skin isn’t always bad – there’s some evidence that the extra lubrication can mean fewer wrinkles. But you want to be on the right side of shiny. Start with a non-stripping cleanser such as Dr Sam’s Flawless Cleanser (£20, SpaceNK), a gentle jelly with calming aloe vera. “Avoid harsh foaming washes with sulphates, as they trigger rebound oil production,” says Dr Khong. Moreover, introduce products with oil-regulating ingredients such as niacinamide. “Consider using salicylic acid a few times a week, rather than daily, if your pores are congested,” advises Dr Khong.

Caudalie Vinopure Blemish Control Salicylic Serum (£32, LookFantastic) clarifies and smells like a spa. Finally, “use lighter textures of moisturiser,” says Mackenzie Paterson, who recommends Tatcha’s The Water Cream (£69, SpaceNK).

Caudalie Vinopure Blemish Control Salicylic Serum, £32, LookFantastic

Combination skin

You’ve guessed it, a dip in oestrogen is also the reason the glands on your T-zone keep pumping out oil. If that’s coupled with dehydration lines around your eyes, and you’ve got tight, flaky cheeks, then your skin type is likely combination and it’s time to rethink a one-product-fits-all approach, says Dr Khong.

It makes sense: slather on a buttery moisturiser and you’ll add a layer of comfort to dry patches but look greasy and cause breakouts elsewhere. A good way to resolve the problem, Dr Khong says, is with “skin zoning” – a targeted approach that involves applying different products to different parts of the face. “Introduce exfoliating BHAs and light, oil-regulating textures to your forehead, nose and chin,” he advises. Naturium BHA Liquid Exfoliant 2% (£19, SpaceNK) is alcohol-free and oil-free, making it kind yet effective.

“Then apply ceramide-rich moisturisers to the cheeks,” says Dr Khong, “and use niacinamide all over, as it regulates oil and supports the skin barrier.” SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 (£150, LookFantastic) is expensive, but it’s expert at laying down a plump, dewy base.