How to have the ultimate break in Yorkshire, God's own country

It would be a cheap shot to say Yorkshire is England’s best county simply because it’s the largest. The latter is obviously true, but what makes it such a cracking place to spend a weekend (or preferably longer) is the variety.

Take the scenery. There’s not one but two national parks: the sheep-and-dry-stone-wall-dotted Dales and the wild and horizon-stretching North York Moors. Plus, a swathe of beaches, breezy clifftop walks, thrilling waterfalls (including England’s highest single-drop waterfall) and weirdly wonderful rock formations that pop up out of nowhere.

It’s not all for the hearty action-seeker though. There are sumptuous stately homes, romantically ruined abbeys, steam railways and world-class art,from Salts Mill’s collection of David Hockney to the 500-acre Yorkshire Sculpture Park. Market towns still hold markets, cities buzz with shops, music and theatres (Leeds, for one), there’s the occasional slice of posh (Harrogate, for example), and you’d be hard-pushed to find a village without a pub.

But, of course, it’s the people that make a place. Direct, maybe, but always big-hearted, keen to crack a joke and proud to share their beautiful county with others.

In this guide:

• How to spend your weekend
• How to spend a week
• When to go
• Where to stay

How to spend your weekend

A weekend in Yorkshire presents a dilemma: it’s a huge county with almost too much choice. But the Yorkshire Dales possibly has the edge; each valley has a different character, plus there are well-resourced towns and villages if a wet-weather or shopping fix is required.

Base yourself in Burnsall, in Wharfedale, sitting on a curve of the river and with a choice of the riverside Red Lion or, for valley views, The Fell Hotel. Explore the Bolton Abbey Estate five miles downriver with its 12th-century church ruins, stepping stones, paddling and bosky walks to the Strid, where the river squeezes through a rocky chasm. Dog-friendly Cavendish Pavilion, with an outside terrace, is a good lunch spot.

Afterwards, drive to Malham Cove in Malhamdale, a spectacular 230ft (70m) limestone cliff that is the result of glacial action. If feeling energetic, extend the walk past Janet’s Foss waterfall, up the rocky Gordale Scar onto Malham Moor’s limestone pavement and back to the Cove. Enjoy an early supper at the Lister Arms overlooking the village green.

The next day, take the scenic drive up Wharfedale, perhaps stopping at Grassington (location for much of Channel 5’s All Creatures Great and Small) or for home-baking at The Old School Room Tea Room in Hebden. Look out for the overhang of Kilnsey Crag where rock-climbers cling like spiders, before enjoying views of Buckden Pike and the Wensleydale valley. Hardraw Force, on the outskirts of Hawes is England’s highest single-drop waterfall, while the town, with its Countryside Museum and famous cheese-making creamery, is a good spot for to pick up souvenirs. Watch the cheese being made at the Creamery before enjoying a cheesy blow-out in its café.

On the drive back, pause for a drink at the riverside George in Hubberholme and then head to Bolton Abbey for a choice of either smart brasserie or wine bar and small-plates dining at The Devonshire Arms.

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How to spend a week

After a couple of days in the soft green Dales, move east to the wilder expanses of the North York Moors, but take your time. Detour south to wander the glories of the Yorkshire Sculpture Park, near Wakefield, to enjoy everything from Sean Henry’s life-like monuments to the curved forms of Henry Moore. Alternatively, dally in Harrogate with its Pump Room Museum, antique shops and indulgent Bettys Café Tea Rooms.

Motor on to Helmsley, on the southern edge of the moors; options include the Black Swan overlooking the Market Place or The Feversham Arms with its spa. Stride out on a walk on the moors, perhaps out of Rosedale Abbey to Lastingham, or around the amphitheatre of the Hole of Horcum. On the way back, call at the New Inn at Cropton for a well-deserved pint from its microbrewery.

For a less energetic option, take a steam-train ride on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway from Pickering to Whitby. Hop off at Goathland for a pint in the pocket-sized Birch Hall Inn at Beck Hole. Finish the day with dinner at Michelin-starred The Star Inn at Harome, two miles from your hotel.

The following day, potter around Helmsley, admiring its 12th-century castle, Walled Garden, independent shops and, just outside, the romantic ruins of Rievaulx Abbey. Then, drive 30 minutes south to Malton, the self-styled “food capital of Yorkshire” for lunch – you’ll need the energy as you’re now heading to the showstopper Castle Howard, with its Baroque and Palladian flourishes, lavish furnishings and 1,000-acre parkland dotted with follies.

For the last two days, breathe in some salty air at the coast. Stay either in bright and dog-friendly Bike & Boot, overlooking Scarborough’s South Bay, or at the peaceful White Lodge Hotel in Filey, 20 minutes to the south of Scarborough. After a brisk walk up to Scarborough Castle, take your pick of the beaches: sandcastles and donkey rides at South Bay, watching the surfers – or have a go with Scarborough Surf School – at Cayton Bay, family games at Filey or simple, amusement-free Hunmanby Gap, with its excellent Beach Café. It’s worth noting that seaside car parks between Staithes and Filey have transferable parking tickets, so buy a six-hour or 24-hour ticket if you plan to beach hop – and avoid having to race back to the car.

Alternatively, head north to the beautiful curve of Runswick Bay and take the cliff-top path to Staithes, which tumbles prettily down a ravine to its harbour, and enjoy tea at Dotty’s Tearoom.

Spend the last day in Whitby with its clifftop medieval abbey; Captain Cook Memorial Museum (the explorer served his apprenticeship here); Whitby Museum (this “cabinet of curiosities” has everything from gigantic fossil creatures to Victorian medical equipment and ships in light bulbs); and goth shops (Whitby features in Bram Stoker’s Dracula).

Tucked near the bottom of Whitby’s famous 199 steps is Fortune’s Kippers, a tiny shoe-box of a shop which has been selling kippers (smoked next door using traditional methods) since 1872. Ask for them to be vacuum-packed to take away but don’t dally; they shut when sold out so best to arrive by midday. After a walk along the sands enjoy a slap-up fish supper at the Magpie Café; be sure to save room for their home-made crumble.

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When to go

Yorkshire’s weather can be unpredictable though, generally, it’s not as wet as its friendly foe on the other side of the Pennines. Summer can be glorious – the purple heather on the North York Moors or the soft greenery of the Dales – though busy; country roads can be slow-moving and parking spaces at a premium.

Spring and autumn are quieter, and winter a good time for snapping up bargain accommodation prices – as well as enjoying fire-warmed pubs after rosy-cheeked walks.

Every month there’s a festival, show or event on somewhere; from the monumental Leeds Music Festival (August) and long-standing Ilkley Literature Festival (October) to the two National Parks’ Dark Sky Festivals (February) and traditional Dales’ villages summer country shows.

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Where to stay

Best for relaxing

For sybaritic pleasure, it’s hard to beat the rooftop spa at Rudding Park near Harrogate (from £312) or, for a coastal setting, woodland-surrounded Saltmoore, near Whitby, has a spa and sun-catching terrace (from £376).

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Best for families

Children will be entertained with bike rides, fishing, cookery lessons, birds of prey, and Woodland School (spa, golf and cookery, among others, for grown-ups) at Swinton Park (from £332). The Swinton Estate also has off-grid yurts and lodges (such as a two-night stay in an en-suite lodge sleeping up to six, from £478, room only). Or try The Coniston Hotel near Skipton with its spa, family-friendly swim times, archery and off-road driving among activities in its extensive grounds (from £146).

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Best for budget-friendly breaks

Bright and funky, dog- and cyclist-friendly, Bike & Boot has an enviable position overlooking Scarborough’s South Bay (from £90). Equally well-placed is Harrogate’s White Hart Hotel, a Georgian coaching inn with bold-coloured interiors, and between Valley Gardens and the fashionable Montpellier Quarter (from £85, room only).

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How to get there and how to get around

Towns and cities are well connected by train, both from outside and from within, with LNER, TransPennine Express and CrossCountry the main operators, providing direct services from London, Scotland, the Midlands, south-west and northern regions. London or Edinburgh to Leeds, for example, takes around two hours and three hours, respectively. Northern provides useful internal connections as well as northern services.

A car is needed for rural areas. Access from the south is via the M1, from the north the A1(M), while the main east-west route is the M62.

Leeds Bradford airport has flights from Belfast, the Channel Islands as well as international destinations.

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