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Calling all bon vivants. This is your city. Within seconds of tucking into a traditional andouillette (tripe sausage) or modern vegetarian cuisine in a jam-packed bistro, admiring fine art in a Renaissance abbey, or getting delightfully lost in a traboule (secret passageway) used by 19th-century silk weavers, you’ll quickly realise that Lyon is a city that knows how to live well.
Enthralling, cinematic and richly storied, after living here for 10 years, I still find myself being surprised by a walled garden I never knew, a fresque (wall mural) suddenly popping up on a riverfront wall, a new museum or river boat route.
Street-smart Romans first spotted the city’s extraordinary topography, founding Lugdunum (Lyon’s predecessor) in 43BC on the sunny slopes of Fourvière. And to this day, this basilica-crowned hill above Lyon’s quaint Unesco-listed Old Town (Vieux Lyon) is the perfect perch for clocking the mighty Rhône and Saône rivers that wend their way so gracefully through the centre.
The city’s quays, landscaped with peaceful water gardens and floating bars, buzz night and day – while culture lovers can explore a bounty of museums. Then there’s the gastronomy: among France’s finest, thanks to the unfaltering creativity and sass of city chefs, both past and present.
In this guide
How to spend your weekend
When to go
Where to stay
How to spend your weekend
Day one: morning
Start with coffee and croissants at any of the pavement cafés on 19th-century Place des Terreaux. Admire the writhing horses of Frédéric Bartholdi’s landmark fountain (constructed in 1889), the 17th-century Hôtel de Ville (city hall), and playful fountains by conceptual artist Daniel Buren.
At the Musée des Beaux-Arts you can immerse yourself in 5,000 years of art history, from Egyptian antiquities to contemporary graphic arts, showcased with architectural aplomb in a 17th-century Benedictine abbey. Seasonal exhibitions bolster the rich permanent collection. Refuel afterwards with a succulent éclair – sweet or savoury – in the museum’s elegant salon de thé, with a shaded summer terrace overlooking the museum’s peaceful cloister garden.
Back outside, indulge in some window-shopping (“faire du leche-vitrines” or “window licking” as the French say) around the fashion boutiques on shopping streets Rue Édouard Herriot and Rue de Brest. A five-minute walk away on Rue Chavannes, concept store Pop And Shoes is my favourite for urban fashion and accessories – I love browsing here, simply to see what Lyon’s fashionistas are wearing at that moment.
If it’s winter or a grey day, lunch at Le Grand Réfectoire inside historic Grand Hôtel Dieu. In warm weather, enchanting terraces in the medieval hospital’s impeccably restored courtyards promise hours of more casual eating and drinking, at any time of the day. When I’m seeking a quintessentially French pavement terrace on a pretty square, I follow the local crowd to buzzy Grand Café des Négociants.
Afternoon
No visit to Lyon is complete without a ramble into its medieval heart. For a pictorial potted history of Lyonnais literature, admire the Bibliothèque de la Citè wall mural colouring the entire façade of a riverfront building at 6 Rue de la Platière. Walk 10 minutes to the 16th-century Place des Jacobins, and beyond to the River Saône. Cross the Passerelle du Palais de Justice footbridge to the riverfront Palais de Justice, one of France’s finest Neoclassical monuments with its 24 Corinthian columns.
On the quay in front is the striking The Weight of Oneself sculpture, of a man holding a drowned man in his arms, by Scandinavian artist duo Elmgreen & Dragset. I particularly recommend lingering here in summer when ground misters provide some much-needed cool air (June to August, Lyon can get scorching hot). Delve into nearby Cathédrale Saint-Jean – the heart and soul of Unesco-protected Vieux Lyon – and meander the surrounding terracotta-hued maze of medieval and Renaissance streets.
Don’t miss courtyard-clad Hôtel Bullioud, possibly the Old Town’s most splendid piece of Renaissance architecture, a 10-minute stroll north along boutique-lined main street Rue St-Jean. Soak up Lyonnais history and culture at the nearby Gadagne museum. Time your visit so you arrive, or depart, on the hour to catch the enchanting Horloge Charvet (1864) in action. Known locally as Horloge aux Guignols, the grandiose clock stands behind glass by the museum entrance on Place du Petit Collège (it’s not hard to find – there’s often a crowd in front). I love watching the mechanical figures of Gnafron and Guignol act out the passing of time.
End the afternoon with a funicular ride uphill to Fourvière and its wedding-cake Basilique de Fourvière. The city panorama that unfolds from the basilica terrace is magical, but the view from the statue-crowned rooftop is even better. To see it, buy tickets for an afternoon tour in advance online.
Late
As the sky turns pink, return to the Presqu’île (Lyon’s centre) and walk across the Passerelle du Collège footbridge to join locals promenading along the river-hugging Berges du Rhône. Its landscaped quays buzz with summertime cyclists, serenading lovers lounging on pristine lawns, and students hanging out in hammocks or in bars afloat traditional péniches (river barges).
Linger over drinks on the Rhône at La Barge, followed by dinner at French-Japanese restaurant Takao Takano or legendary La Mère Brazier, which has two Michelin stars, for traditional Lyonnaise cuisine. Here, chef Mathieu Viannay puts a modern spin on classics such as poularde demi-deuil (poached chicken from Bourg-en-Bresse with black truffle), and a dangerously lavish cheese trolley.
Later, night owls can sip a sparkling French CanCan (with champagne, lemon and cassis) and other craft cocktails at The Monkey Club or Barãgones.
Day two: morning
Ride the metro from Hôtel de Ville up to Croix-Rousse to drive your taste buds wild at the Marché de la Croix-Rousse, Lyon’s best, local, open-air food market running much of the length of Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse. Meander its plane tree-shaded length, stopping to taste and buy: dégustation (tasting) is very much de rigueur in this foodie city. When I lived in the area, I religiously bought all my fruit, veg, and cheese here every weekend; it’s as much for the vibrant social scene as the top-quality seasonal produce.
Consider a guided tour (in English) of the area’s unique traboules (secret passageways) and silk-weaving workshops, run by Lyon’s super-efficient tourist office. Alternatively, download its Traboules app on the App Store and do it yourself.
Complete your Croix-Rousse foray with a Communard (glass of red Côtes du Rhône wine with blackcurrant liqueur) and a charcuterie or cheese platter to share at Café du Gros Caillou, or hit Les Desjeuner for a decadent brunch. Afterwards, stroll downhill through the Pentes de la Croix-Rousse neighbourhood, threaded with tiny boutiques, friperies (second-hand shops) and artist workshops.
On clear and sunny days, linger at the top of hillside garden Jardin de l’Esplanade de la Grand-Côte, and see if you can spot Mont Blanc. Consider a demi (half) of locally brewed craft beer with a view on the panoramic terrace of the Barabaar beer bar.
Afternoon
Take the metro two stops from Hôtel de Ville to Place Bellecour, said to be Europe’s largest car-free square. Sail downstream along the River Saône in a Navigône water bus to La Confluence, Lyon’s most modern district constructed on wasteland where the city’s two mighty rivers meet.
At the Musée des Confluences you’ll find fascinating anthropological and science exhibits – and dramatic city views from the dazzling glass atrium and rooftop. Later, mooch past the former docklands on the Saône quayside to clock more eye-popping contemporary architecture. End at 1930s sugar warehouse-turned-rooftop bar Le Sucre for drinks with Lyonnais cool cats.
Late
Back in Bellecour, sunset cocktails beckon at designer Le Rooftop, followed by revisited French classics at polished old-timer Léon de Lyon. Stand-out dishes include the veal sweetbreads with aromatic truffle-laced mashed potato, and sweet Grand Marnier-flambéed crêpes suzette. Or, for cutting-edge vegetarian cuisine, book a table at Culina Hortus: a feast of flavoursome and seasonal fruit, vegetables, grains, herbs and edible flowers from France’s finest small producers.
Staying for longer?
Discover more things to do in Lyon
When to go
Spring is predictably one of the most delightful times to visit. Temperatures can be positively delightful, and bright blue skies are a given as urban life spills outside. Summer raises the curtain on outdoor film screenings, swimming at 1960s riverside pool Centre Nautique Tony Bertrand and fantastic arts festivals, including Les Nuits de Fourvière at Lyon’s Roman amphitheatre.
Late June entices gourmets to the Lyon Street Food Festival at SNCF train workshop-turned-edgy cultural hub Les Grandes Locos.
Lyon’s signature sunny days might be shorter in autumn, but visitors are well compensated with seasonal grape harvests in the surrounding Rhône Valley and Beaujolais wine regions; feting Beaujolais Nouveau on the third Thursday in November is big in these parts.
December in Lyon translates as the city’s spectacular Fête des Lumières (Festival of Lights) and brilliant boutique shopping and bistro dining before hitting the ski slopes, two hours’ drive away. To avoid renting a car, I recommend Skimania’s excellent-value ski packages, including bus transfer and cut-price ski pass.
How to get there and how to get around
Getting there: Lyon is a great destination to travel to on the Eurostar from London St-Pancras; avoid changing stations in Paris by catching the Eurostar to Lille (one hour, 20 minutes), then a high-speed TGV to Lyon’s Gare de Part Dieu (three hours). Rhônexpress trams link Lyon’s international Saint Exupéry airport, 15 miles (25km) east, with Part-Dieu in 30 minutes.
Public transport: Lyon is fairly compact and undeniably handsome, making it an ideal city for navigating on foot or public sharing Vélo’v bike. Floating Dott e-scooters fill the few remaining gaps. The small but efficient, four-line metro run by TCL makes light work of longer distances and/or the hill up to Croix-Rousse; ditto for the vintage funicular line linking Vieux Lyon with the hilltop Fourvière neighbourhood. Single metro tickets cost €2.10 or £1.82 (contactless payment is easiest – simply tap in and out) and are valid for one hour on buses and trams; under 11s travel for free. A single/two-journey ticket valid one day on Navigône boats is €3/5.
Tickets for 24 hours (€6.90 or £5.80) or 48 hours (€13 or £10.95) are available. Metro trains run from 5am to midnight, and are generally safe to use. Download the TCL Lyon app for route planning, schedules and real-time traffic information.
Taxis: There are taxi ranks in front of Lyon’s two central train stations (Gare de Part-Dieu and Gare de Perrache), or order a city taxi online, by telephone or through the TaxiLyon app. The daytime rate is €1 or 84p per kilometre plus an immediate €3 or £2.52 picking-up fee. Expect to pay €70 or £60 to Lyon’s out-of-town Aéroport Saint-Exupéry, 36km (22 miles) east. Uber works well in Lyon.
Driving etiquette: On the right side of the road. Lyon is notorious for traffic congestion, however, and I strongly recommend leaving your car at home or dumping it in a covered car park such as Parking Bellecour (€3.40 or £2.95 per hour) on central Place Bellecour upon arrival and explore the city on foot or by public transport.
Where to stay
Luxury living
The swish Villa Maïa sits high on Lyon’s ‘Hill of Prayer’ and is the embodiment of French art de vivre craftsmanship. The 37 sublime designer rooms have sensational 180-degree city views, and the spa (complete with 20-metre indoor pool) overlooks a wildflower garden. Nearby dining is Michelin-starred, wine-bar casual, or irresistibly à la rooftop.
Read the full hotel review here.
Designer digs
Lyon’s ‘hotel of the people’, in the new-gen Confluence neighbourhood, ticks every box with its sharp design, contagious creativity, and packed agenda of events. Mob Hotel Lyon’s modish rooms have a terrace, and some offer river views too. Larger Master Mobs include a sofa, Smeg fridge, coffee machine and projector screen for movies. Contemporary dining is organic and locally sourced. Thanks to its lively weekend DJ sets, Mob is a local favourite too.
Read the full hotel review here.
Budget bolthole
Extraordinarily good value given its prime location in Vieux Lyon, this longstanding neighbourhood hotel wraps itself around one of the city’s emblematic traboules (secret passageways). Guests can spiral up an ancient gold-stone staircase (there’s also a lift) to attractive contemporary rooms, most of which sleep up to four. Breakfast on the medieval street pavement terrace is a warm-weather highlight.
Read the full hotel review here.
Find more hotels in Lyon in our guide.
Know before you go
The basics
- Travel time from London: One hour and 45 minutes
- Currency: Euro (€)
- International dialling code: +33
Local laws and etiquette
- Tipping culture: Service is actually always included in restaurant bills in France, rendering tipping an appreciative gesture rather than obligation. Consider rounding the bill up by a few euros or leaving between five per cent and 10 per cent of the bill to compensate for good service.
- Greetings: Two skimming kisses – one on each cheek – is the norm among the Lyonnais, among both women and men.
- Local dining: When eating in a bouchon (Lyonnais bistro) don’t be surprised if the waiter asks you to keep the same knife and fork for the duration of your meal – lick it clean discretely with the final bite of your entrée (starter) and place it back down on the table either side of your plate waiting to be cleared. Equally standard is for the final addition (bill) to be totted up with a pen on the paper red-and-white-checked tablecloth. It’s common to ask for une carafe d’eau (jug of tap water) and house wine is always served in un pot (a thick-bottomed glass bottle distinctive to Lyon).
- Wear comfortable shoes for strolling around: Fourvière and Croix-Rousse are hilly, and Vieux Lyon streets are stone-paved.
- Drinking water: Bring your own water bottle to fill up at public drinking-water fountains, all clearly marked on city maps or on the Eaux du Grand Lyon website.
