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What a “perfect yard” looks like is subjective—to one person, that could mean a forest of large trees and a beautiful flower bed, and to another person maybe it’s a vegetable garden and a place to sit outside to relax. Whatever that looks like, though, likely doesn’t involve common lawn weeds sprouting up where they shouldn’t.
Whether you already have a problem with weeds or you’re wanting to take preventative measures, you’ve come to the right place.
“A thick, healthy lawn is your greatest weapon against weeds, not weed control,” advises Sarah Cason, director of marketing and technology at DreamLawn. For a weed-free yard, she suggests mowing your grass to a height of three to three-and-a-half inches to reduce stress during extreme heat. Aerating the turf also helps, as it enhances drainage and gives the roots better access to water and nutrients.
If you’re looking for methods to remove specific common lawn weeds, like dandelions or crabgrass, Cason provided us with some expert tips on how to do so below. Read on to learn these expert tips.
Additional copy by Meghan Shouse.
Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)
Infamous for their seed heads that resemble puffballs and their yellow flowers, dandelions reproduce by the dissemination of their seeds on the wind, says Brian Feldman, senior director of technical operations at TruGreen. Like other weeds, they can create competition for your lawn to absorb the necessary nutrients and water it needs to thrive. “Dandelions have a large tap root that stores food for the plant similar to a carrot, and if the entire root isn’t removed, the weed can grow back,” Feldman explains.
To get rid of this type of weed, you can use a dandelion weeding tool that allows you to dig deep into the soil and pull up the weed with the entire root, he says. This won’t permanently rid your lawn of dandelions since their seeds can always establish new weeds. Applying chemical herbicides is an effective and efficient way to rid your yard of dandelions in a single treatment, he says. Remember to follow the product label directions or tap a pro if you’d like them to take this task off your hands.
If you don’t want to use chemical weed control, spraying vinegar is an option, Feldman says, but it will take time to burn up the dandelion leaves. Often weeds will regrow after this type of application, so multiple vinegar treatments will be required. “Vinegar may also burn the grass, so be careful!” Feldman says.
Yellow Nutsedge (Cyperus esculentus)
Yellow nutsedge is a perennial weed nicknamed “the weed from hell,” Cason says. “It has earned its name through its ability to quickly spread seeds through the tubers found within its root system.”
Nutsedge can be identified as a grass-like weed that grows taller and faster than the surrounding grass. It is also commonly referred to as “water-grass.” If you see this type of weed in your lawn, don’t pull it—this can cause the seeds to break off and create more weeds within your lawn. Cason recommends consistent treatments with the herbicide Sedgehammer. If your lawn has a heavy population of nutsedge, it may take a few seasons to have it fully under control.
Crabgrass (Digitaria sanguinalis)
You can spot crabgrass by its pointy, narrow leaves, purple-tinted stems, and the fact that it will lay flat in your lawn, Cason says. If there are bare or dry and cracked areas in the lawn, this is commonly where it will appear.
To control this type of weed, apply a preemergent herbicide in the first two treatments of your lawn before the growing season, she recommends. Applying a preemergent before soil temperatures hit 50 degrees will allow you to create a protective barrier within your lawn. Once crabgrass has germinated, it becomes much more difficult to handle, and you may need to wait until the following season, so it can die out over the winter months, Cason explains.
Wild Violet (Viola sororia)
Wild violets may be beautiful, but not all homeowners are wild about them because they can quickly take over a lawn. With purple-blue flowers, wild violets are commonly found in sunny locations with moist, rich, well-drained, acidic soil, Cason says.
“Wild violets have a waxy coating and spread their seeds through underground rhizomes, which makes them very specific on how they need to be treated,” she says. Mixing a dish soap into the herbicide can help cut through their waxy leaves. You can also dig up the clumps and physically remove them—it's best to do this in early fall.
Ground Ivy (Glechoma hederacea)
Ground ivy (also known as “creeping Charlie”) is most commonly located in moist, shady areas of the lawn, Cason says. This type of weed will look like a dense mat within your lawn with light purple flowers.
“This weed is part of the mint family and spreads its seeds through underground rhizomes, similar to wild violets,” she says. If you have this weed in your lawn, use a rake to pull the running root system out of the soil and treat the area with a broadleaf herbicide, Cason recommends.
Chickweed (Stellaria media)
Mighty adaptable, chickweed has small, oval leaves, and it can spread quickly across the lawn. It'll fight the turf for light and nutrients, weakening the overall health of the lawn, Cason says. Including a preemergent in the first two treatments of your lawn care program will keep these weeds from germinating in your yard. Once chickweed is established, you can hand-pull or use selective herbicides, she says.
Bull Thistle (Cirsium vulgare)
A thistle is a flowering plant that typically has sharp prickles all over, Feldman says. There are a variety of species, some of which are considered weeds, while others are cultivated for their attractive pink and purple flowers or as food for pollinators.
Found growing around the U.S., bull thistle is a broadleaf weed best identified by its leaves that grow in alternate directions from each other to form a rosette, and its leaf margins are toothed with sharp spines. Another identifier of this type of weed is its flowers, which are dark pink to purple.
Bull thistles are biennials and complete their life cycle in two years. Using vinegar can work for annual thistles by burning the tissue it comes in contact with, but it won’t do much to control perennial types, he says. Alternatively, homeowners can hire professional lawn care services that can apply treatment to remove and control areas of infestation from the root selectively.
Canada Thistle (Cirsium arvense)
Some types of thistle, such as Canada thistle, are perennial plants that come back year after year. Often also referred to as creeping, small-flowered, or perennial thistle, this is a non-native, deep-rooted perennial that can grow two to four feet high with flowers varying from white to purple, and it has a sweet fragrance, Feldman says.
Commonly found throughout much of the eastern and midwestern U.S., this thistle blooms from early- to mid-summer and thrives in poorly maintained lawns, prairies, and meadows. Because of its aggressive nature, it can also invade lawns and gardens. Specifically, Canada thistle can creep into the lawn from an ornamental bed through a network of underground stems called rhizomes, Feldman explains.
While the removal method of hand pulling may weaken the plant and make it less aggressive, it doesn’t eliminate the network of rhizomes that can resprout, he says. If the problem persists, several applications of broadleaf weed control by a professional may be warranted.
Sow Thistle (Sonchus oleraceus)
This type of weed resembles a dandelion more than a thistle. If not mowed, a sow thistle will produce a bright yellow, dandelion-like flower on plants that can grow two to three feet tall, Feldman says. Annual sow thistle has a similar yellow flower but forms a rosette and doesn’t spread like its perennial relative.
Annual thistles can easily be controlled by digging up the full weed; removing all green parts of the plant will force it to use up stored food and eventually weaken it. If the entire plant is not removed, it will continue to feed the underground rhizomes and all the plants that spread, Feldman says.
Bermuda Grass (Cynodon dactylon)
With fine, soft leaves that creep and spread voraciously, Bermuda grass is a very difficult type of weed to control once it’s in a planter or garden bed, says Victoria Cummins, a senior editor at PlantWhisperer. Selective herbicides with fluazifop or sethoxydim can help, or you can meticulously dig out the grass and roots, Cummins says.
Quackgrass (Elymus repens)
Quackgrass has long, thin, yellow-green leaves that spread thickly. It's hard to control once it gets going in a container or lawn, Cummins suggests. Try a glyphosate or fluazifop herbicide—or painstakingly dig out every bit of root.
Related Story: 9 Reasons Your Lawn Looks So Much Worse Than Your Neighbors'
Purslane (Portulaca oleracea)
Purslane's fleshy leaves and small yellow flowers enable it to spread fast and push out other plants in pots and beds, Cummins says. If you notice this type of weed, promptly pull or hoe it out completely, or use a nonselective herbicide, she suggests.
Knotweed (Polygonaceae spp.)
Knotweed’s long leaves and creeping habits let it rapidly engulf planters and garden spaces, Cummins says. Knock it back with glyphosate or imazapyr, or remove the whole plant manually, roots and all.
Deadnettle (Lamium purpureum)
With square stems and pinkish-purple flowers, deadnettles are common types of weeds that pop up in the spring—you'll see these in lawns that are mowed too short. You can easily hand-pull them when the soil is moist, according to the University of Maryland Extension, or use a broadleaf weed killer.
Goosegrass (Eleusine indica)
With fibrous offshoots, goosegrass can steal sunlight, water, and nutrients from your regular grass. To identify it, look for light green to white colors at the base of stems and flowers with flattened, finger-like spikes, according to the University of Maryland Extension. These types of weeds can be hand-pulled, or you can apply a preemergent herbicide without nitrogen fertilizer. Rainfall or irrigation is needed to dissolve the herbicide.
Poison Ivy (Toxicodendron radicans)
One of the most notorious types of weeds, poison ivy typically has three leaflets, and they can be a glossy green with serrated edges. You could manually remove it, but you'd first have to suit up in protective clothing, including long sleeves, pants, closed-toed shoes, and gloves, to avoid direct contact with the plant and its skin-irritating oils.
Some other removal techniques include applying an herbicide made to treat woody plants or smothering the weed with layers of cardboard or newspaper, followed by mulch or soil. Just know that this latter method could take several months to kill off just a small area.
Curly Dock (Rumex crispus)
Curly dock can be recognized by its wavy-edged green leaves, according to the Brooklyn Botanic Garden. Left unchecked, it could grow up to four feet tall and disperse thousands of seeds. The best way to remove this weed from your garden is to dig it up instead of trying to hand-pull it.
Common Ragweed (Ambrosia artemisiifolia)
Those allergic to ragweed will want to get this type of weed out of their lawn, stat! Ragweed has hairy, fern-like leaves with green flowers on the end of its branches, and it may have a medicinal smell. When it’s four to six inches tall, you can use herbicides like 2,4-D, according to Extension La Crosse County, but these types of applications might not kill off larger plants. Cutting or pulling ragweed may also be effective, but you may need to consult with a health care professional first if you have ragweed allergies.
Related Story: Plants to Avoid Growing in Your Garden If You Have Allergies
Broadleaf Plantain (Plantago major)
Common in yards in temperate areas, broadleaf plantain isn’t all bad: It has antimicrobial and antioxidant attributes, according to the West Virginia University Extension. This type of weed has spinach-like leaves with spindly rosettes shooting out. Hoeing or cultivating the weed can be one way to get rid of it, so long as you uproot the entire root system. Mulches can also help keep this weed out of flower beds and gardens. If this type of weed is taking over your lawn, you can control it by applying herbicides.
Garlic Mustard (Alliaria petiolata)
A noxious weed that spreads by seed, garlic mustard emits a garlicky smell when it’s crushed. This type of weed can grow two to four feet tall and threaten native plants in woodlands, according to the University of Minnesota Extension. Timing is key: You want to remove this weed in the spring before it flowers and forms seed pods.
Yellow Wood Sorrel (Oxalis stricta)
Popular with foragers because of its sour flavor, yellow wood sorrel has five-petaled flowers and heart-shaped leaves. It grows in lawns and gardens but can also be spotted in cracks in the driveway or sidewalk. This type of weed can get aggressive—to stop it from spreading, you can remove as much of the root and rhizome as possible, according to the University of Minnesota Extension, or apply preemergent herbicides like trifluralin or oryzalin.
Field Horsetail Weed (Equisetum arvense)
A field horsetail weed has stems with a bottle-brush appearance and usually doesn’t grow more than two feet. But the rhizomes of this weed can sink as far as six feet into the soil, making it difficult to dig out. The invasive weed can stunt plant growth and is toxic to livestock. It can be treated with herbicides like MCPA and 2,4-D, according to Michigan State University Extension.
Common Mallow (Malva neglecta)
Common mallow is a hardy type of weed that, while it looks pretty with its white, pink, or lavender petals in summer, is detrimental to your garden. The deep taproot of common mallow can rob other plants of water and nutrients, and it can also host plant viruses. Frost won't kill it off, as it can survive freezing temperatures, according to the Colorado State University Extension.
To control this weed, apply wood mulch that's at least three inches deep. When this weed is small, you can remove it by pulling, but once its woody taproot takes hold, you'll need to dig it out.
Pokeweed (Phytolacca decandra)
Pokeweed is undeniably beautiful, with its green leaves, pretty reddish-purple stems, and clusters of dark purple berries that attract songbirds toward the end of summer. However, it is also a toxic weed, particularly its root and seeds, which should not be directly touched. According to the University of New Hampshire Extension, the berries could make kids or pets sick if ingested. Pokeweed is a plant you should be cautious around; it's best to call your local landscaping professionals for safe removal.
Black Medic (Medicago lupulina)
Black medic thrives in dry, sunny areas, and it has a long taproot that can grow deeply in soils, according to the Wisconsin Horticulture Division of Extension. The seedlings look like little clovers and the weed produces a small, tight cluster of yellow flowers. Once the flowers mature, they form a black seedpod. Black medic plants are pretty easy to pull out of the ground, according to Wisconsin Horticulture. But if you have a lot of these weeds, you can try a broadleaf herbicide to get rid of them.
