A snob’s guide to Newport

During the Gilded Age, many of the wealthiest Americans established Newport, Rhode Island, as their premier summertime escape, with families like the Vanderbilts and Astors hiring the era’s leading architects—including Richard Morris Hunt, Stanford White, and Horace Trumbauer—to build grand seaside “cottages” in this small enclave on Aquidneck Island.

Today, Newport remains one of America’s most popular summer idylls. In addition to those remaining mansions—the best of them, from the Breakers to Marble House, have long since become museums, and are open to the public through the Preservation Society of Newport County—the city’s landscape encourages perambulatory discovery, whether it’s by exploring its walkable downtown district or taking a stroll along the breathtaking Cliff Walk, with its scenic views of both the sea and the 19th-century “cottages” that loom over it.

But what really sets Newport apart from other coastal retreats is its history. “Newport is one of the few places where every generation seems to leave its mark without erasing what came before it,” says photographer Nick Mele, whose grandmother, Marion “Oatsie” Charles, was a Newport and Georgetown society fixture. “You have Gilded Age mansions, weathered beach cottages, old yacht clubs, and family traditions that have been handed down for generations. The result feels layered rather than manufactured.”

And there is so much more than meets the eye: “Newport isn’t as preppy as people usually perceive it to be,” says Howard Cushing, a fourth-generation Newporter and co-owner of Gardiner House. “It’s more edgy, more rooted in the eccentric, and more artistic than the Nantucket reds, lobster rolls, and popped collars. It feels more like a small European seaside city, with layers well beyond the Gilded Age and sailing.”

Here’s how to do it right.

Where to Stay

Gardiner House, which Cushing opened with Wirt Blaffer in 2023, remains one of Newport’s buzziest hotels to open in years. Cushing has deep ties to this city—his family’s 1867 Victorian Stick-style home, the Ledges, has made multiple appearances in Slim Aarons photographs and, more recently, on HBO’s The Gilded Age. And it inspired the 21-room hotel’s interior design, including the striking blue and pink mural featuring tropical birds, flowers, and trees in the lobby, which is a digitally produced reproduction of a painting that Cushing’s great-grandfather, Howard Gardiner Cushing, did for the Ledges’s entrance hall.

The Studio Bar tucked behind the lobby is a favorite spot for cozy cocktails, though in the summers it might be eclipsed by the hotel’s alfresco Lawn Bar, with its waterfront views. In the morning, head over to Gardiner Provisions, the team’s new bakery and coffee bar on Thames Street, where sourdough loaves and French pastries make a strong case for lingering before the day begins.

If you’re looking for a historic experience (with modern conveniences), check into the Vanderbilt, an Auberge property that was originally built in 1908 by Alfred Gwynne Vanderbilt as his personal home. After a full renovation that was completed in 2021, the 33-room hotel in the heart of downtown Newport has become a gathering place for the community. And this being an Auberge, you can expect all the requisite luxurious amenities. Don’t skip drinks at the Roof Deck, with has some of the best views of Newport Harbor, especially at sunset.

Back in the spotlight for 2026 is Hotel Viking, the Bellevue Avenue grande dame that is celebrating its centennial with a major renovation. The refreshed hotel has leaned into its old-Newport role as a meeting place for artists, writers, and summer regulars and added a quartet of new food and drink concepts: the French Riviera-inspired Pescadou; the revived Skoal Room, a classic cocktail bar; the rooftop Cap Club for tropical drinks; and Tuck Shop, a preppy lobby café for coffee and pastries.

For a more secluded escape, Castle Hill Inn is a Relais & Châteaux set on a 40-acre peninsula at the end of Ocean Avenue, one of the most beautiful coastline drives in the country. A 19th-century mansion (originally the summer residence of marine biologist Alexander Agassiz) serves as the property’s main building and has seven uniquely decorated rooms. Book the duplex Turret Suite for 270-degree views of Narragansett Bay, which you can take in from the freestanding soaking tub surrounded by windows on three sides. For true seclusion, there are also standalone beachfront cottages or Harbor House, which was one of Grace Kelly’s favorite hideaways. All Castle Hill guests get dibs on a reserved section of the hotel’s sprawling lawn, where you can sink into an Adirondack chair and watch the sun go down (with drink in hand, preferably).

And for a perch right on Cliff Walk, there is the Chanler at Cliff Walk. Like the Breakers, Marble House, and the other Gilded Age grande dames that line this stretch, the property dates back to the 19th century, when New York Congressman John Winthrop Chanler commissioned it as his summer retreat. It later turned into a private girls’ school and then housed the cast and crew of the 1974 film version of The Great Gatsby before transforming into its current iteration at the turn of the millennium. There are 20 rooms to choose from, each done up in a unique decorative style, whether it’s Moroccan, Greek Revival, French Provincial, or English Tudor.

Where to Eat

For a fresh and sophisticated take on classic New England dining, book a table at TSK, a “boutique steakhouse” and Newport institution since 2011. Just next door, Audette is an intimate French-inspired gem serving elegant dishes and expertly crafted cocktails in a refined, white-tablecloth setting.

The town’s social scene comes to life at the Clarke Cooke House, a staple in Newport’s nightlife—the Sky Bar, perched atop this iconic building on Bannister’s Wharf, is a prime spot for people-watching. On a typical night, you’ll find men of all ages in blue blazers twirling women in preppy sundresses on the dance floor after dinner, while a less gussied-up crowd mingles throughout the other three floors of the restaurant. “A summer evening at the Cooke House is one of Newport’s great rituals,” Mele says. “It’s one of those rare places where grandparents, grandchildren, locals, and visitors all end up under the same roof.” Don’t miss the signature Snowball in Hell dessert, a decadent chocolate roulade filled with vanilla ice cream and covered in Callebaut chocolate sauce and toasted coconut. If you can make it until closing time, you can join in the nightly singing of “God Bless America.”

For another nod to American history, reserve a table at the White Horse Tavern. Originally opened in 1673, the tavern’s colonial rooms and low-beamed ceilings feel especially fitting in America’s 250th year. Back on Bannister’s Wharf, the Black Pearl remains the classic stop for chowder, while the Mooring, on neighboring Sayers Wharf, is a reliable waterfront choice for oysters, lobster, and harbor views.

Contrarian Wisdom: The 3.5-mile Cliff Walk is a Newport rite of passage, but if you prefer to take in the scene from an air-conditioned car, do the 10-mile Ocean Drive loop, which takes you past Hammersmith Farm, Jackie Kennedy’s childhood home. We’d highly recommend doing both.

Flora, the restaurant at Gardiner House, is named for Flora Payne Whitney (whose portrait by Howard Gardiner Cushing hangs above the bar) and is led by Chef Miguel Somoza, who was formerly the head chef for Richard Branson’s Moskito Island. The menu here takes inspiration from Mediterranean seaside towns like St.-Tropez and Marbella; the Arroz del Senyoret, a seafood paella, is truly a standout dish (Howard Cushing’s Spanish-born wife, Lucia, is to thank for the influence).

A few other hotel tables are worth booking, too. Castle Hill’s dining room has

returned as Aurelia, where a six-course, prix-fixe menu showcases contemporary coastal New England cooking, should anyone need reminding that the lawn is not the only reason to make the trip. Back downtown, the Conservatory at the Vanderbilt is a sun-filled alternative to the Dining Room, with rattan chairs, greenery, clam chowder, and Pimm’s Cups doing their part to keep the mood properly seaside. On Cliff Walk, Remy’s Loose at the Chanler offers ocean views and French coastal polish without committing to the full fine-dining ceremony at Cara.

Finally, the café at the newly restored Carriage House at the Elms has quickly become one of Newport’s chicest daytime dining spots, with the Stoneacre Hospitality team bringing an imaginative touch to the historic setting. Think lobster salad, rosé, and a very well-dressed crowd lingering over lunch.

Where to Shop

Bannister’s Wharf and Bowen’s Wharf are home to some of the best shops in Newport. For luxury menswear, head to Royal Male, one of the oldest Barbour dealers in the country, which carries a range of high-end outerwear, including tweed sports jackets and cashmere blends. The store also specializes in tailored garments from European designers. For women’s fashion, Monelle has chic clothing, jewelry, gifts, and accessories. If you want to master a tropical vibe, Mandarine is a must, with stylish beachwear and jewelry that evoke St. Bart’s, where the boutique has a sister property. For preppy finds like plaid shirts, seersucker trousers, and nautical rope bracelets, visit Kiel James Patrick.

Contrarian Wisdom: You’ll find all the Barbour and nautical rope bracelets you need along Bannister’s and Bowen’s wharves, but better shopping is further inland on Bellevue Avenue, where the selections are more eclectic (though preppy staples are still plentiful).

The wharves are the obvious place to browse, but some of Newport’s best shopping is a few blocks inland, especially along Bellevue Avenue. Speaking of preppy staples, you’ll find a good selection of updated classics in bold prints a few blocks inland at CK Bradley, the brainchild of Camilla Bradley, who is the woman to thank for making ribbon belts cool again. A few doors down is Michael Hayes, a luxury emporium that has held court on Bellevue Avenue since 1983. This is where you’ll find Alden shoes, Canali blazers, Eton shirts, and a made-to-measure program by Atelier Munro. In the women’s department, the store carries a selection of pieces by It girl favorites like Cara Cara and Veronica Beard.

Finally, design lovers will appreciate Cottage & Garden, a hidden gem where owner Jill Buckley displays her keen sensibility through an eclectic mix of antiques, distinctive home goods, and garden objects like birdbaths and sundials. For a newer coffee-and-shopping hybrid, Beaucoup Cafe & Home pairs French pastries and coffee with a small boutique of home goods, clothing, and accessories, making it the sort of place where stopping for a latte can become an excuse to buy something linen. Serious hunters should also save room for Aardvark Antiques, the architectural-salvage and garden-ornament trove where the best souvenir might be something you have to ship home.

What to Do

No visit to Newport would be complete without a visit to at least one of its famed mansions. The Preservation Society of Newport County maintains many of these legendary Gilded Age palaces, including Rosecliff, the Elms, and the Breakers. For

a different lens on the city’s great-house culture, there is also Rough Point, Doris Duke’s former Newport home, now operated by the Newport Restoration Foundation.

The Breakers is the headliner, but if you only have time for one mansion, make it Marble House, which architect Richard Morris Hunt modeled on Versailles’s Petit Trianon for William and Alva Vanderbilt. The cost of the 1892 construction was reported to be $11 million—or approximately $402 million in today’s dollars—with about $7 million of it going toward 500,000 cubic feet of marble. Don’t miss afternoon tea at the Chinese Tea House on the grounds. And do check the Preservation Society’s calendar, too, as it hosts various events throughout the season, including an annual flower show, a wine and food festival, a black-tie summer dinner dance, and—every three years—a weekend devoted to coaching. Fans of The Gilded Age can also book the Inside “The Gilded Age” tour, which links the series’ Newport filming locations at Marble House, the Elms, the Breakers, and Chateau-sur-Mer to the real people who inspired the fictional drama.

Another Newport must: taking a stroll on Cliff Walk, the scenic 3.5-mile route that not only gives you stunning panoramic ocean views but also takes you right past the backyards of all the Gilded Age mansions that hug the coastline. Some of these, like Beechwood and Miramar, remain in private hands—the former belongs to Larry Ellison and the latter to Steve Schwarzman, who last summer announced his plans to turn it into a museum after his and his wife’s deaths.

Contrarian Wisdom: The Breakers is the OG, of course, but we’re partial to Marble House, which was modeled after Versailles’s Petit Trianon. Plus, the Chinese Tea House is great for a Cliff Walk refreshment break.

If you prefer your sightseeing from behind a windshield, take the 10-mile Ocean

Drive loop, which winds past rocky coves, Jackie Kennedy’s childhood home at Hammersmith Farm, Brenton Point State Park, Fort Adams, and enough of an Atlantic Ocean panorama to make even the most jaded passenger stop and take in the view. Take your own car or book “Elizabeth,” a 1961 Rolls-Royce available for scenic tours.

To see a quieter, less-traveled side of the city, author and longtime Newport resident Bettie Bearden Pardee recommends exploring Newport Neck, between Harrison Avenue and Ocean Drive, for its “farms and bucolic settings,” including Ballard Park and Gooseneck Cove, which she has written about on her website, Private Newport.

Tennis buffs will want to check out the International Tennis Hall of Fame, whose museum recently underwent a multimillion-dollar renovation. You can tour the grounds too, which include the oldest tennis court in the country, and even book one of the grass courts to stage your own Wimbledon-like match in the middle of Newport. This summer brings a particularly good excuse to go: Roger Federer is being inducted

into the Hall of Fame during a three-day celebration in August.

Newport’s sporting calendar is not limited to tennis. Newport Polo, founded in 1876 and billed as America’s first polo club, is celebrating its 150th anniversary this season, with Saturday matches running through late September. Bring a picnic, dress as though you might be photographed, and be prepared for the divot stomp.

Contrarian Wisdom: If you really want to go full Gilded Age, pack a fancy picnic to spread out at a match at Newport Polo, or at an alfresco NewportFILM screening on the lawn of one of the mansions. Bonus points for proper silverware and china.

For a more relaxed summer ritual, check the schedule for NewportFILM’s outdoor screenings, held at scenic locations throughout the area. “The weekly NewportFILM outdoor movies are one of my favorite parts of a Newport summer,” Bradley says. “Sitting on a blanket on the lawns of beautiful summer cottages and properties in and around Newport, with a picnic dinner and friends and family, is laid-back perfection.”

The Edward W. Kane and Martha J. Wallace Center for Black History at the Wanton-Lyman-Hazard House, which opened during Juneteenth week, offers another view of the city’s past. Housed in Newport’s oldest surviving house, the center traces the lives and legacies of Black Newporters whose stories have too often been overshadowed by the city’s Gilded Age glamour.

If it’s your first time in Newport, there is no better way to experience it than from the sea. Book a cruise (through Newport Classic Cruises) on the 58-foot motor yacht Rum Runner II or the 72-foot sailing vessel Madeleine. Both boats do trips around Narragansett Bay that offer a comprehensive introduction to the historic scenery.